Showing posts with label Netherlands. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Netherlands. Show all posts

Monday, January 11, 2010

Canals, Red Lights and Cafes; you just have to Gogh - Amsterdam, Netherlands

Stats:
Destination:   Amsterdam, Netherlands
Number of Days Spent:  4 days
Where we stayed:  When we met in Laos, our friends Marije & Fetze invited us to stay with them.  We had an amazing time exploring the city with them both on foot & by their boat.  Thanks again guys, you made our stay in Amsterdam really special!
Best restaurant:   Fresh raw herring from a street stall (numerous located all over the city).  Topped with onions and a couple of pickle slices thrown on the side it does not look too appealing, but it was surprisingly delicious.  If you have a few extra $$'s, we are told the freshwater eel is even better.  Next time...maybe.
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Best of:  Cruising around the famed canals, wandering through the Van Gogh museum, the chilling Anne Frank House, learning just how short you really are - the Dutch are the tallest people in the world.
Worst of:    While waiting for a free outdoor concert to start, it started to pour down rain - we were soaked head to toe by the time we made it back to the train.  We were sad to miss the concert but it was still unforgettable.
Most Memorable:  Pizza delivery in a boat?  Our friends called ahead and ordered pizza for dinner while we were cruising around the canals.  Due to recent changes in the health code, they are no longer able to hand the pizza to you while in the boat..perhaps one too many drunk drops in the water...

Useful Tip:   "The Netherlands" refers to the country itself.  "Holland" is a providence (or state) within "The Netherlands".  Anything made in or anyone living in "The Netherlands" are considered Dutch. 

Progressive, entrepreneurial, free thinking, tolerant.  The city of Amsterdam and its people are all these things.  The worlds first stock exchange was created here.  World renowned artists like Van Gogh and Rembrandt called this place home.  Religions of all creeds have looked for refuge in the "low lands" of The Netherlands.  That free spirit plays out on the streets of Amsterdam like no other place on Earth.  Regardless of your personal feelings on morality and equality, the government here does not see itself as the morality police, but rather, a protector of its people.  Things that are considered criminal in most countries are instead controlled and regulated here.  Marijuana smoking is legal, but only in specified areas.  Prostitution, i.e. the famed "Red Light District", is practiced but with heavy rules and regulations.  The whole out in the open policy creates an interesting dynamic.  Business attired men and women stroll past red lit windows and smoke filled "coffee" shops on their way to work.  Whether you agree with these policies is irrelevant.  It's these policies that makes Amsterdam...well...Amsterdam to a, sadly, large part of the visiting tourists. 
The rest of this blog, however, represents the less "seedy" aspects of Amsterdam.  Beyond the haze and red lights lies a city that is chic and modern; yet, reflective on its upbringing.  From shop lined squares to the famed canals; sombering remberences of a dark time to the Golden Age of Dutch art, it can all be found right here. 
Created mainly from reclaimed land, the city lies a couple of meters below sea level making it a pleasure to explore on foot or bike.  Once again our friends Marije and Fetze showed us around the town.  First on the list was the Oude Kerk or "Old Church".  Built in the early 14th century the mostly wooden interior ceilings have remarkably withstood the tests of time.  The floors are made primarily of gravestones from some of the early important people of Amsterdam, notably Frans Banning Cocq made famous by Rembrandt's "Night Watch".  Ironically, the church sits in the heart of the present day red-light district.        
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Upon leaving the church we simply strolled around town checking out the architecture, sampling the afore mentioned herring, and drinking a couple of beers with our friends at several pubs around town.
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One of the best things to do in Amsterdam is to simply stroll around and check out the architecture, do a little people watching from the numerous street cafes and let life stroll by. 
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After having a nice dinner, we tried to see a free concert going on in one of the squares but the rain started and by the start of the event, it was pouring down rain.  Good thing we brought one umbrella for 4 people!
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Another must while in Amsterdam is to see the canals from a boat.  The purpose built canals were laid out and designed in the 17th century during the Dutch Golden Age when the population of the city was bursting at the seams and access to the ocean was a must.  From the main harbor a series of half moon canals gyrate out easily allowing boat access to the harbor from nearly anywhere in the city.  Somewhat of an engineering feat, and yet a simple design that still works til this day.  Passing under quaint little stone bridges, cruising by the numerous kitschy houseboats, and craning your neck to see all the multicolored buildings that line the canals make a cruise along the canals one of the top things to do.  Marije and Fetze once again showed us great hospitality by taking us out on their boat for the afternoon complete with wine & a stop for pizza eaten on the side of the canal!  Does life get any better?
Here is where they live, just South of Amsterdam: 
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The funky looking building is a Children's center of some sorts.
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Someone certainly had a sense of humor when they built the "Wooden Shoe" boat. 
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The canal also allows you to get different views and angles of the multitude of architectural styles.
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Here we are waiting our turn at the one lock that we had to pass to get from their house to Amsterdam.
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The next day we took the train in and went museum hopping.  The Rijksmuseum was first on the list. The most important museum to Dutch art, the Rijksmuseum contains over one million pieces ranging from paintings to giant doll houses.  The more famous works of art were completed by Rembrandt and his pupils with the highlight of the museum being the "Night Watch".  One of my favorites, the Nightwatch is a massive canvas covering an entire wall and displays Rembrandt's excellent use of light to highlight the afore mentioned Frans Banning Cocq in amidst his company of men.  As large as the canvas is, it used to be even larger.  In the 18th century the canvas was chopped down to fit on the wall, a tragic but all too common practice during that time.
Leaving the Rijksmuseum, we crossed the park over to the Van Gogh museum.  While Van Gogh only lived here for a short time, his brother, and receiver of his estate, lived here and thus took his collection and turned it into a museum after Van Gogh committed suicide.  This is the largest collection of Van Gogh's in the world and includes  many "Self Portraits" along with the "Potato Eaters" and "Sunflowers".
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Leaving the museum area, we headed back into the heart of the city.  Since Tracy had been to the Anne Frank house on a previous trip she opted to do a little shopping while I headed into the museum.  The Diary of Anne Frank is a personal diary written by a Jewish girl who went into hiding when Nazi Germany invaded Amsterdam.  For nearly two years, the family hid in a space above the warehouse where the father worked.  Sadly, the story ends with Anne and her family being discovered and hauled off to concentration camps.  Anne dies just before the war ends, but her father survives and turns her personal journals into a book.  It's a moving story and  has been mandatory reading for so many literature classes ever since.  The museum takes you up to the hidden rooms and explains how they lived in hiding, were helped by workers at the plant and their eventual discovery by the Nazis.  
After a filled day of sightseeing, Marije and Fetze served up a feast fit for kings and queens.  Thanks again guys!
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Our last day in town was spent wandering the canals, sipping coffees while people watching in the many different neighborhoods like the Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein & our favorite area, the Jordaan.  We topped the afternoon off by drinking away our sorrows at the Heineken Brewery.  What the brewery lacks in charm it more than makes up for in over the top brand promotion and hi-tech attractions.  From e-mailing video messages back home to a ride where you are beer being made (including getting "splashed" as you, the hops, hit the barrel), the brewery is more like a theme park.  At least you get a couple of beers at the end.  
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Out of beer and out of time, Fetze took us to the ferry where we were off to England to begin our cruise back to the US!  Thanks again to our friends and we promise to come back, clad in Orange, for Queens Day!
To see more photos click here: Amsterdam!

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Windmills, Wooden Shoes and all things Dutch: The Low Lands of The Netherlands

Stats:
Destination:   Amsterdam, Netherlands
Number of Days Spent:  4 days
Where we stayed:  We had an amazing time staying with Marije & Fetze in Durgerdam just outside of Amsterdam!  
Best restaurant:   Fetze broke out the grill on our last evening and we feasted on steak, chicken and pork chops.....  all outdoors in their garden!  Stropwaffels take second place (1 Euro/$1.50).  If you happen across one of these delights dive right in...imagine a hot cookie sandwich with what I think was honey and maple syrup in the middle. 
Best of:  Beautiful waterfront villages, windmills & startlingly beautiful scenery...don't miss this part of the Netherlands! 
Worst of:    I can't think of a single "worst of" moment. 
Most Memorable: We happened upon a bunch of ladies dressed all in pink crazy looking outfits.  They were having a picnic bridal shower underneath one of the famous Dutch windmills. 
After a couple of fun filled days in Germany with Leann, we hopped aboard the overnight train to Amsterdam to meet our friends Marije and Fetze.  Thanks to human ingenuity in the form of dikes, about 35% of the country lies below sea level giving it the moniker "Low Lands".  The resulting reclaimed land is rich and fertile and ideal for growing among other things, tulips.  With its windmills, quiant little "sea" side towns, and vast expanses of flat fields used for growing flowers in season the Dutch countryside is a delight for any traveler.  The pace here is a subdued one where amble walks along pedestrian only sidewalks are a common practice and even till this day, a few of the local tenants don the traditional attire.
A short train or bike ride south of Amsterdam lies Durgerdam.  With a population of around 500, a beautiful waterfront view and colorful facades we found ourselves envious of Marije and Fetze's dwellings.  Occasionally in our travels we pause and ask ourselves, "could we live here?".  In most cases the answer to that is no.  We love the United States, but in this stunning setting with its friendly people and liberal society we added this place to our list of cities that would qualify with a definite "yes".  Plus, how cool would it be to don wooden clogs and go work in the garden?!?  Ok, so they are not that comfortable as one could imagine, but who ever said fashion = comfort.          
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Kicking off the clogs, Marije took us around to a couple of villages for the morning.  Visible from Dugerdam, but an entirely different town is Ransdorp.  In the middle of Ransdorp sits a tower that for a couple of Euro cent one can climb to the top and see for miles.  The view is stunning.  Lush green fields dotted with little while specks of sheep grazing.  The vast system of canals, lakes and channels can be seen from here glimmering in the mid-day sun.
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Across one of the many manmade lakes lies the village of Volendam.  Popular amongst locals and tourists alike, the town sports a picturesque harbor lined with cafes, sailboats and your obligatory windmill.  On the day we were here, a little market was set up - mainly selling clothing flea market style but with one exception - the Stropwaffel stand.  Few tastes can match how delicious a fresh and hot off the grill Stropwaffel is.  The maple syrup and honey mixture is something not to be missed.  After grabbing our treat and strolling along the docks, we picked out a nice little cafe and sat down to have a coffee and people watch while taking in a bit of sun.  Sailboats come in and out, residents walk their dogs and the occasional traditionally attired woman strolls by - complete with the dual pointed bonnets they are known for.     
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After our morning out visiting the villages, it was time to hit up the big city - Amsterdam here we come!
To see more photos click on each town:  Volendam, Ransdorp, Durgerdam