Our Momentary Lapse of Reason

There’s no place like home!

2011-10-24T21:04:00.000-06:00

Stats:
Destination: The Good ole U S of A
Days spent: 1 year and counting
Best of: Family, friends and the greatest country in the world!
Worst of: Return to reality and lack of financing to continue our journey
As the adage goes “All things must come to an end” and so too does this chapter of our lives. From leaving Denver in June of 08’ till boarding that plane in Beijing in June of 10’ we had an amazing journey that few ever venture or have the ability to take. We consider ourselves very lucky to have been able to do this. Our thanks to so many friends and family who have not only supported us emotionally, but at times given us a warm bed and a meal.
Taking a journey such as this was no quick decision nor was it an easy one. We both walked away from well paying jobs, sold our house just as the market was beginning to fall, and watched our 401K’s dwindle as the markets dipped all the while spending our ‘trip’ savings. There were times when we thought that perhaps we should quit early, but we kept going and trusted that we would be ok and the markets would bounce back.
If you have been keeping up with the math, you will realize that this ‘final’ post is coming well after the actual trip ended. Yes, I know, I am quite the procrastinator and there is no one to blame but myself for that. “So what the hell took you so long?” you might ask.
Since our return to the states in the summer of 10’ we have been quite busy. After a lot of deliberation and with the support of Tracy, I decided to return to school. While I enjoyed the work at Whole Foods and the people who work there are an amazing group of people, I felt that a change was in order. I just completed my AA in Accounting at Lake Region State College in Devils Lake and am now studying New Media/Web Design at North Dakota State University. I hope to eventually go freelance or start my own firm and be able to be anywhere in the world so long as we have an Internet connection.
Tracy is now a partner of a translation agency that handles survey translations. Since she is already working from home we have a unique opportunity to do something that most people don’t have the opportunity to do.
We hope to continue our travels, only this time a little slower. Our intention is to be able to work and travel at the same time. While I think that America will always be home, we have a disease that has no cure. The travel bug has bitten and infected us with an insatiable thirst for adventure and exploration. Our travel days are long from being over as we plan what our next steps in life will be after I graduate. Who knows, only time will tell but so far our life’s journey has been nothing short of amazing and I am excited to see what the future holds.
I leave this blog…at least for now…with two of my favorite quotes. One is a challenge to explore the world around you and the other is to explore the world within you. I am sure you have heard these two quotes before but it wasn’t until after this trip that they now have new meaning for me.

“A journey of a thousands miles begins with a single step.” ~ unknown Chinese author
“Be the change you wish to see in the world.” ~ Mahatma Gandhi

May your life be as truly blessed as ours have been, and until next time – Good Luck and Best Wishes!
Jason and Tracy Bedsaul

Conquering the Great Wall of China

2011-10-23T21:07:00.000-06:00

Here’s a site that needs no introduction. Stretching for over 5500 miles, the Great Wall of China is one of the most iconic sights in the world and a visit to this part of China would not be complete without seeing at least a part of the wall. The building of the wall began over 2000 years ago and has underwent many changes over the years. For all its changes, the countless lives that were sacrificed in its creation it never really served its intended purpose. Invaders were able to pay off defenders or simply went around. The wall did have some unintended benefits however. Serving as sort of an elevated highway it allowed goods to pass through some of the toughest terrain with ease and also allowed messages to travel quickly from one tower to the next.

Within a couple of hours of Beijing, parts of the wall have been restored to varying degrees. We decided to go with the trip to the wall that the hostel provided. In the end the price is fairly close to taking public transport and it takes out the hassle and wasted time of getting from one bus station to the next. While there are several options on offer, we recommend taking the slightly more adventurous 10k hike from Simatai to Jinshanling. But be sure you are up for it and fit enough. Not that I would pass for a fitness poster child anytime soon, but walking a lot everyday does have its advantages.

If you begin at Simatai, most people will take the chairlift and we recommend it also unless you are super fit and able to out pace people on most hikes. Only a couple of people opted to walk up the mountain to start and we had to wait for them in the end. Walking 10k on the wall gives you a sense of just how big this thing really is. Thinking the amount of work that went into hauling stones up the sides of mountains to construct all these watchtowers and how difficult it must have been. Which brings us to another note on walking the wall – don’t expect a stroll in the park. As you can tell in the pictures, the wall was built atop a mountain ridge so it goes up and down with the terrain. Another challenge is the fact that despite being on the ‘restored’ section, there are lots of missing blocks and watching your step all the way is a must.

All this talk about how difficult the hike was is not meant to scare you away. We were given so many warnings about how hard it was that we ended up thinking it wasn’t too bad. So consider yourself warned – it’s a hard hike, but not the worst and if you come prepared you shouldn’t have any problems completing it. So enjoy the hike and when you finish the 10k just think there are another 5,490 more miles to go, most of which are in worse shape than this part!

Mao’s China No More? Exploring China’s Heart and Soul: Beijing

2011-10-22T10:38:00.002-06:00

Stats:

Destination: Beijing, China
Number of Days Spent: 6 days
Where we stayed: Two places: Happy Dragon Youth Hostel – Northeast of the Forbidden City, the Happy Dragon was a decent place to stay and not too far from the Metro (Dongsi station). Beijing is flush with hostels located all over the city so I am sure there are better and worse. We also took the trip out to the Wall with them (see next post) which was combined with several other hostels around town. The last three days we spent couch surfing with an American businessman named Russ. He was an energetic and gregarious guy who really went out of his way to show us how expats live it up in Beijing. He worked in the morning, but at night he took us to a great hot pot place, a couple of expat bars, and a nice place for dinner. Thank you again Russ, if you ever read this, for showing us a great time around Beijing!
Most Amusing: Didn’t they put a stop to the lack of shirt-wearing along with the no spitting campaign before the Olympics?

Interesting Eats: Beijing provides ample cuisines to satisfy nearly every palate. While not as popular as perhaps they once were, bugs, scorpions, silkworms, and starfish can all be found in the night market. I really can’t recommend eating any of these critters with the exception of the scorpions. The crunchy texture was a surprising delight. Avoid the silkworms at all cost – perhaps the most disgusting thing I ate in China – stinky tofu withstanding.

Thankfully, we don’t have to rely on Silkworms for sustenance. The world famous Peking Duck can be found in many places all over town. We opted against Dadong (the most famous) for a favorite of many local expats and Chinese locals, Li Qun. Duck is a little more expensive but oh so worth it! The bird is tender, juicy, melt in your mouth delicious with amazing pancakes and plum sauce. Seriously one of the best things you will eat in China. Don’t miss it!

There was a delicious dumpling place, Xian Lao Man (Dongcheng district, 252 Andingmenwai Dajie), that we loved so much we went back to three times. Sadly, we mistakenly tried the celery dumplings in our final round and they were so bad that it scarred our memories of this place. There was no English spoken there at all but they did have a rather dusty and worn English menu to share which made ordering an adventure but relatively easy.
Best of: Forbidden City, loads of culinary delights, delving into modern China.
Ever since the times of the Mongols, Beijing has been an important and strategic city. From Ghenghis Khan all the way to present day, this city has had an oftentimes strong hand in shaping the fate of a nation that now stands poised to become the center of the next great super power in the world. Beneath all this superficial posturing, largely by an increasingly paranoid government, lies a current of culture and tradition that spans generations reaching far beyond any present day political schemes. People, by and large, live their lives day in and day out doing what they have always done - survive. No one person personified this philosophy more than Zhedong Mao, or as the world has come to known him as Chairman Mao.

With the nation still reeling from the after effects of WWII, Mao and the communists seized power and began enacting sweeping changes that led to the removal of all western influences, redistribution of land to farmers and an overall sense of isolation nation from the rest of the world.
Mao had become the face of this new nation and millions of youth followed this captivating leader. In Beijing on Tiananmen Square, they would gather to hear him speak. Energized, these leaders of the Cultural Revolution set out to erase the past. Temples were closed, doctors and teachers were outcast and the nation became a closed minded society...a generation lost its spiritual guidance.
With Mao's death in 1976 however, things on the economic side began to thaw. Trade was reopened and goods began to flow in and out of the nation once again. The politics, however, remained cold as the government and til this day they keep a tight reign on the media and officials. Mao’s influence can still be felt today. "The Great Firewall of China" has entered the lexicon of language and battles with Google over free speech rights continue with the government generally winning.
But with all the government oversight on speech and press, far less attention is given to enterprises and capitalism. The government tends to look the other way when it comes to environmental issues and as a result, China is home to 18 of the worlds top 20 most polluted cities. Beijing is no longer part of that group thanks to a global microscope known as the Olympics.
Home to the 2008 Summer Olympics, Beijing cleaned up its act for the world scene. Billions of dollars were spent on beautification projects and it shows. The city shimmers and sparkles. Bathrooms, in a nation known for the worst bathrooms in the world, are remarkably clean. The city also boasts a healthy ex-pat (foreign nationals) scene.
That leaves the question - where does Beijing turn from here? Keep the tight leash on that which is become increasingly harder to control, or embrace commercialism and consumerism and allow the markets to float freely? In recent years, they have leaned towards appeasing the global community as business is booming and turning your back on your biggest clients would not be the wisest move. On the other hand, the government has shown in its battle with censoring Google, that it has no problem telling big business no.
If the citizens of the nation are any indication, it will only be a matter of time when capitalism will take over. In a nation of over 1 billion people, China now boasts the fastest growing middle class. With this increase in buying power the quest for higher end goods is increasing.
So perhaps the battle is not capitalism vs. communism, but rather an increasingly out of touch government vs. the will of its citizens. If China wishes to become the world power it sees itself as, it must take its own people along with it. It has them for now, but for how much longer remains to be seen.

Speaking of consumerism, Beijing provided an opportunity for us to finally do some shopping. After months of worrying about carrying around backpacks and how much they weighed, it was time to let loose and load up on some last minute goods.
The Pearl Market is the place to get knock-off anything. Be sure to bargain hard in here – prices are inflated at the very least 50% and in some cases they settled for around 90% of the original quoted price. If you are looking for ‘quality’ DVDs then head to Sanlitun. Expats live around this area so this is also a good place to find the name brand stores, but the prices are similar, if not a little inflated, than they are in the states. For a little more unique shopping head up to Dongcheng district around the Qianhai Lake. Stamps, Mao propaganda, and other interesting and unique souvenirs scatter this hip area of Beijing that also hosts lots of bars and swanky restaurants.

Right in the center of Beijing sits the ancient heart of China – The Forbidden City. For 500 years this palace was home to emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties, their families, concubines, and servants. Uninvited entrance was once punishable by instant death, but today it’s almost a crime not to include a visit to the palace on your trip. Lavish does not begin to describe the extent of how ornate and decorated the temples, halls, buildings and living quarters are.

Taking up a huge chunk of prime downtown real estate, everywhere you visit in the palace has been well cared for and still retains much of its original design and décor. Many of the halls have been transformed into museums housing various artifacts. One hall has an extensive collection of clocks that were given to the Emperors as gifts by foreign nations. Many halls are filled with various pottery pieces. There is also a jewelry hall filled with precious jewels the emperors had collected over the years.

Dominating the center of the complex is the Hall of Supreme Harmony. Used in coronations, birthdays, and other special occasions, the hall contains a richly decorated Dragon Throne from which the Emperor would also dole out decisions.

In front of the Forbidden City is the equally famous Tiananmen Square. Mao constructed this, the world’s largest public square, to be the antitheses of its neighboring Forbidden City. While the Forbidden City represents opulence, wealth, and in the communist frame of mind – control over the people, Tiananmen square is a vast open space of nothing but paving slabs. The buildings that flank the square were built in the Soviet communistic style – plain, functional, boring. At the southern end of the square lies the Chairman himself. Much like the other ‘great’ communist leaders – Lenin in Russia and Ho Chi Min in Vietnam, Mao’s body lies out for visitors to pay their respects. At the time of our visit, he was on vacation – getting a touch up in Moscow.
The square is perhaps better known for a tragic event that cemented the government’s stance on public speech. In June of 1989, students took to the square in a democratic protest. Tanks and the army rolled in and crushed the protest. While it is disputed whether blood was spilt in the square itself, it became the symbol of tragedy and a setback to any chances of true democracy in China.

The Forbidden Palace was where the Emperors would spend most of their time, but during the summer months the palace suffered from sweltering heat. The Emperors needs a little refuge from the heat so they built the Summer Palace complex north of the city. Lush trees and gardens surround the expanded Kunming Lake. The palace would be the home of the emperors during the summer months. They also would construct several temples and halls where they would conduct business. In one show of unnecessary opulence, a marble boat was commissioned to be built for the lake out of money earmarked for updating the Chinese navy.
Much like the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace is no longer off limits and many tour groups along with Beijing families come here to enjoy the gardens, views, and a little slice of hard to come by fresh air.

Alongside all of it’s modernization, and withstanding the full force of the cultural revolution, Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism still remain the dominant religions of China. Over the years, the teachings have become similar and blended making it difficult to an outsider to distinguish between them aside from the presence of Buddha or a statue of Confucius. All I can say is despite Mao’s best efforts, religion still plays a vital role in the lives of a significant portion of the population.
Beijing has no shortage of temples of worship. The Lama Temple is perhaps the most renowned Tibetan temple outside of Tibet and boasts a huge statue of Buddha that is carved out of a single piece of sandalwood – a world record in fact. Nearby Confucius Temple was once a center of learning and boasts some 190 stone pillars carved with the teachings of Confucius.

Beijing also has delightful alleyways known as Hutongs. These are the last of Beijing’s great neighborhood areas. Most consist of a single gate which opens into a small courtyard that is ringed by families. Most of the homes are a single story and have been around for hundreds of years. Many of these so called Hutongs are now being demolished and replaced with high rise multi-use buildings. I suspect that in the near future they will be relegated to a small part of town saved by conservation efforts, but until that day comes – hop on a bike or walk up and down the alleys that run east/west and explore the neighborhood. The three person bike, by the way, is not as easy to steer as it may seem!

On the outskirts of town a once industrial part of town is getting a makeover. Replacing the factory, assembly line production that is synonymous with communism is a new area being called simply 798. The entire area is dedicated to highlighting the emerging arts scene in Beijing. While it is largely a work in progress, the area has great potential and it was a refreshing change of pace from all the Mao talk. Even young bride and grooms are getting in on the scene as a good place to take wedding photos.

Beijing has something to offer to just about anyone. From temples of religion to symbols of communism, from the silkworms on a stick to roasted duck and nearly everything in the middle, Beijing is emerging into a world class city along the likes of New York, Paris and London.
With just one more stop left on our trip, our visit to the Beijing area cannot be complete without visiting one of the worlds most impressive and iconic man-made structures - The Great Wall of China!

Dusty, Rustic, and Worn with Age Appeal: Pingyao, China

2011-09-05T21:26:00.001-06:00

Stats:

Destination: Pingyao, China (Shanxi Province)

Number of Days Spent: 2 days

Where we stayed: Harmony Guesthouse – Set in a 300 year old residence, the courtyard and architecture are worth the stay alone. The owners are friendly and the beds in the rooms are huge platform style beds that practically cover the entire room. Not the softest beds, but quite unique.

Technorati Tags: China,Pingyao,RTW Travel,Photography

Best restaurant: For cheaper and more authentic eats, head outside the walls. We walked out to a little noodle place just outside the Upper West Gate and pulled up the ‘traditional’ plastic kiddie chair for a cheap helping of noodle soup. Cart vendors can also be excellent value and filling.

Best of: The Wang Family Courtyard was impressive albeit a little repetitive. Wandering around the cobblestone streets of Pingyao proved to be interesting as well.

Most Memorable: Christianity is a relatively new religion to China and while most ‘churches’ are of the underground variety it was interesting to stumble upon one that not only displayed its function proudly, but had an active congregation. As we were strolling around town on a Sunday morning, we came across this church. A couple of people noticed us outside taking pictures and checking it out and invited us in for worship. The service was more in the style of Buddhism whereby people come and go as they please while a preacher gives the daily lessons. Some were seated on benches while others came and went taking time to pray and give alms. It was interesting to see how their style of worship has been adapted to what was ‘normal’ in their culture. We dropped a few Mao bucks in the pot on the way out and thanked the people that had graciously invited us in.

Pingyao’s history is rooted in the financial sector. Pingyao is home to China’s first bank and checking system. The merchants were looking for a way to exchange silver more quickly and efficiently rather than haul it all over the place. A single document proved lighter than 4000 silver coins and thus the bank and check system was born. That original bank is long gone but it did establish Pingyao’s importance as a financial center for all of China for a century.

The financial centers are now closed, but Pingyao has found new life in the form of tourism. Widely regarded as the best preserved walled city from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) the city looks, and acts, much as it did over 400 years ago. No cars are allowed within the city walls and the size of the old city – about a mile square – make it a pleasure to walk. Carts of goods are still largely transported by animal drawn carts (although motorbikes are slowly invading). The entire town within the walls has this dusty, rustic, worn with age appeal. There may be no major sites to see in this little town halfway between Xian and Beijing, but the city is a site in and of itself and worthy of a days worth of wandering and exploring.

Aside from the well preserved town, there are a couple of noteworthy sites slightly further afield. The guys who run Harmony guesthouse can arrange a day trip out to see the Zhangbi Underground Castle and the Wang residence in the same day, otherwise it will likely take the better part of two days if you want to try a combo of public transport and shared taxis to visit the two sites.

The Wang residence, more so a castle than home, is a massive collection of over 50 courtyards and 1000 buildings. As nearby Pingyao prospered, so did some of its residents. Many of the more affluent ones began to build their own little compounds outside of the city. Wang’s Family Compound is one of the larger ones and while the architecture, style, and carvings are impressive – it can all be a little redundant after you have wandered through the first 50 buildings or so.

Just past the Wang residence is a Confucian temple where you can climb to the top of the walls and get a good view of the compound. It’s hard to imagine that all these buildings, which looks more like a village than a home, belong to one family.

The other stop on the tour is the Zhangbi Underground Castle. Contrary to the name, the Underground castle is a collection of tunnels and basic rooms built right under the existing village. The purpose was to help defend the city against possible invaders but the invaders never came so the tunnels were never used for their intended purpose. It’s an interesting tour showing the various uses for each room and how the residents could enter the tunnel through hidden entrances and go from one end of town to the other undetected. Perhaps just as interesting is the current sleepy village above ground. Since we were on a ‘tour’ we didn’t have a chance to wander the streets too much but it looked to have some potential for exploration.

Pingyao may not be the highlight of a trip to China, but it does provide a welcome distraction from the rapidly changing China that has consumed most of the nation. Modernization, pollution and overcrowding plague most Chinese cities these days but Pingyao has managed to remain low key off the developer’s radar for now.

Taking our last train ride in China, we hopped on board for our final destination – the capital, heart, and soul of modern day China – Beijing.

An Underground Army of Terracotta Warriors in Xi’an, China

2011-08-24T14:50:00.001-06:00

Stats:

Destination: Xi’an, China (Shaanxi Province)

Number of Days Spent: 3 days

Where we stayed: Shuyuan Youth Hostel – Busy place with tons of fellow travelers to swap stories with. They can arrange trips out to the Warriors which takes in a few minor sites but the public bus is easy and cheaper. After weeks of seeing one or two foreigners where ever we were it was nice to spend a couple of days with fellow English speakers. They also had a “how to make dumplings” class which was free and quite tasty. A tip though, ask for a quiet room, the hostel has many courtyards and was rather noisy.

Best restaurant: Xian has just about anything you could imagine. We absolutely loved the Sichuan place near Xiangzimen Hostel, named Lele Canting (乐乐餐厅). Thanks to www.tochinaandbeyond.com for the recommendation! As suggested, the gongbao jiding & dry-fried green beans were absolutely delicious, the best we had since Chengdu! Cheap eats can also be found around the Muslim Quarter – try the soupy noodle and mutton dish that you crumble a loaf of bread into – filling and far better than it sounds. The roujiabing (meat sandwich) was a miss for us though. We also took the opportunity to check out Pizza Hut, yes it’s the American fast food chain but here it’s a sit down meal with wait service and white table cloths. . . also overpriced but we ‘had’ to check it out.

Best of: The terracotta warriors are the obvious draw to Xian and rightfully so. The water fountains at Big Goose Pagoda and the Drum Tower are both sites not to miss. If you have the time, a trip out to the “miniature” terracotta army of Emperor Jingdi is impressive and you will likely have the place to yourselves. There is public transport out there, but plan on spending the day getting there and back as the bus is not frequent.

And did we mention how great train travel in China is? Super comfortable, clean and beats the buses by a mile!

Worst of: With nearly all our time spent in rural China, we finally found the foreign tour groups. Up to this point, our touristy stops in China were mainly geared toward Chinese travelers. Xian and the warriors are firmly on most itineraries of the big western tour companies. Expect lots of crowds, both Chinese & foreign, at the warriors and expect to be overrun by flag bearing tour groups. Aside from the warriors, the rest of the sites in and around Xian are relatively tame.

Memorable: We were not sure what this woman’s deal was, but she had to pose with absolutely everything in the Drum tower… including Tracy. We felt sorry for her husband as she was constantly yelling at him. We tried our best to avoid her, but the place was small and she eventually cornered Tracy and had her sit in the 500 year old chair for a photo – along with crazy Chinese lady on her lap.

Welcome to main stream, clean, modern city China! In utter contrast to the southern countryside and the western Tibetan areas we had been experiencing, Xian is a shining example of urban China. Research and technology industries as well as space exploration all have offices here. With one face turned to the future, there still remains a lot of history in this sprawling metropolis of 8 million plus. The 700 year old city wall still remains intact as do the drum and bell towers as well as several pagodas most notably the 1300 year old Big Goose Pagoda. Xian is also considered the terminus of the old Silk Road and as such was an important city for trading goods as well as ideas for many centuries.

Like a compass that always points north, the Drum and Bell Towers located right in the middle of the city help travelers orient their sense of direction. The towers used to signify the start and end of the days as the bell would be rung at sunrise and the drum beat at sunset. Today, the bell and drum are silent, but there are musical performances at certain times of the day that help bring the 700+ year old buildings to life. The Drum Tower, located in the middle of a traffic circle is lit up at night for an enchanting scene not to be missed.

Located on the outskirts of Xian, The Big Goose Pagoda is one of the more iconic landmarks of Xian. Built in the 7th century, the Pagoda was built to house some of Buddha’s teachings that were brought back from India. While you can pay an entrance fee to get into the Pagoda, we were told that it wasn’t all that impressive inside and it’s really the architecture that makes the pagoda so iconic. We opted to visit the pagoda at night instead so we could catch the water fountain show. For a free outdoor daily show, the fountains along with an upbeat soundtrack were actually quite impressive.

On our way back we couldn’t help stopping at the impressive city wall which was conveniently located next to our hostel (or is it the other way around?).

Buddhism may be the dominant religion, but the Muslims have been able to carve out their own niche here as well. The spread of Islam reached all the way to Xian, the eastern terminus of the silk road and its presence takes on a life of its own here in China. The headscarves are donned by the women and the men wear their traditional skullcaps but the mosques blend in with the Chinese style of architecture so well that only the crescent moon atop the building gives away its purpose. The food also reflects some traditional Muslim foods such as kabobs, stuffed pitas and mutton dishes.

As China rapidly advances the giant corporations of the world move in and set up shop. Unlike Europeans, the Chinese seem to embrace the presence of the worlds largest retailer – Wal-Mart. Of course, this doesn’t stop what China is known best for – knockoffs. Just up the street about two blocks stands Wu-Mart, a virtually identical retailer with even better prices. Big box retailer or not, the Chinese still have their traditional attire. The convenient slit-in-the-pants can be seen virtually everywhere in China – Xian no exception. Makes child rearing & bathroom breaks a snap!

Just outside of Xian about 20 km is the main reason why tourists come here – the Terracotta Warriors. If it not for some silly wall to the north this may be the number one historical site in China. Just look how immense it is, those are people to the left and right of the pit!

The entire collection were created by Qin Shi Huang, the first Emperor of China, in the second century BCE. It is estimated that it took over 11 years to complete the mausoleum. Not only are the sheer number of statues impressive, but the level of detail that is put into each one is remarkably done well for such a large scale project. No two warriors are alike and were more than likely replicas of his real army. Most scholars believe that he created the army to assist him in the afterlife as he had all intentions of ruling there as well. Just look at the stunning detail!

Lost over the years of aging are the colors that once adorned each statue as well. Just a few fragments of blue and red pigments remain but it’s enough to get a decent idea of what the completed statues may have looked like 2 millennia ago.

Excavations and restoration are ongoing so there is more and more being discovered each day. One aspect of the warriors that is somewhat impressive is the fact that the Chinese have largely not commercialized them to death. Sure there are tons of vendors selling miniature warriors, and a growing number of gift shops outside but the warriors themselves have been put back to together and placed right were they were intended to stand for eternity. All the excavation sites have been simply covered with airplane style hangars. In a country obsessed with making everything shiny and brand new, it’s nice to see them respect an important site such as this.

So the Terracotta warriors are huge, lifelike and one of the most impressive sites in all of China, if not the world but the area around Xian has one more hidden gem up its sleeve. The tomb of Emperor Jingdi was built less than a century after the Terracotta warriors but could not be anymore different.

Jingdi was a pacifist by nature. He reduced military spending, cut taxes and as a result improved the lives of his subjects. Rather than be buried solely with his army, he preferred to bring all of the necessities of creating a functioning society. Miniatures were made of pigs, cows, scholars, teachers, and workers. In total there were over 50,000 ‘puppets’ created complete with moving arms and wardrobes. With the wood all rotted away, the figurines are mostly armless.

While not as impressive as the Terracotta Warriors, the site is interesting and the building that houses the excavations and museum is state of the art. The pits containing the statues are below glass floors giving you a closer look at the pit than the warriors. It is also a crowd free place – something you will appreciate if coming from the warriors.

Xian proved to be an exciting blend of old and new. The modern city provided a glimpse into the current lives of the Chinese and what the future may hold. Perhaps, though for this city the future remains invariably tied to the past. Being home to the terracotta warriors, the eastern terminus of the Silk Road and other impressive historical buildings and sites Xian will always be linked to its past.

With our bags packed, we head to the train station to take the overnight train to another ancient walled city – Pingyao.

Exploring the Amdo region of China in the Crossroads of Western China: Xining

2011-08-11T17:55:00.001-06:00

Stats:

Destination: Xining, China (Qinghai Province)

Number of Days Spent: 3 days

Where we stayed: Lete Youth Hostel – Cozy place spread out across the top couple of floors of a high rise on the south side of town in a residential neighborhood. Lots of common area space. The breakfast was so-so (they were often out of a lot of items) but they do stock the local yak yogurt, a favorite of Tracy’s. A bit out of the way, if location is a concern – head for the Sunshine Pagoda located right next to the night market. After popping our heads in there to chat with some friends we met in Xiahe we thought maybe it would have been the better choice but we didn’t feel like moving.

Best restaurant: There was a nice little café just up the street from the Lete and the night market was great for grilled meats and veggies on a stick. Just grab a basket and then load it up with all the skewers you want. Hand it to the ‘chef’ and on the grill it goes. If looking for coffee, head to Amdo Café. Pastries and French pressed coffee are on order at this cute little hole in the wall but it’s the crafts that make the place. Hand made by local Tibetan women, the café sells the products as sort of a fair trade system where the women get most of the profit. Prices, quality and selection were among the best we found in China.

Best of: Sometimes rain can be a blessing in disguise. While visiting the Youning Si Monastery, we were invited into one of the monk’s homes where we shared tea and bread with some of his visiting family & his super cute ginger cat. Once again language was a barrier, but the unspoken gestures are often times worth more than any amount of words that could be spoken.

Worst of: The Kumbum Monastery was one of the great Yellow Hat sect monasteries in Tibetan Buddhism but the Chinese government has staked its claim & thrown up an ATM to boot. Tickets are for sale & organized tours given in Chinese are given by the busload. The place just felt unhappy and more desperate than any other monastery we visited in China.

Xining sits along the crossroads to three distinct cultures. Head east of here and as you go the people and heritage becomes more Han Chinese. Head to the Northwest and the Islamic culture of the ‘Stans’ (Uzbekistan, Kurdistan, etc.), also referred to as the Hui, becomes more prevalent. Hopping on a train to the Southwest takes you deeper into Tibetan culture. Here at the crossroads, all three combine to create a city of 2 million that has more heart and character than first apparent to the average traveller. Most stop here on the way to greater destinations but Xining has a few sights of its own worthy of exploring.

Travelling by bus from Tongren, we passed by some of the most beautiful countryside we have seen in China. We both wished that renting a car here was an option, it is simply stunning! A river winds alongside the road for most of the way accompanied by a painted canvas of multi-hued rolling hills and mountains. The scene can almost make you forget you are on a Chinese public bus filled with chain smokers…almost.

Our first stop was to check out the Kumbum Monastery located just south of Xining. Lete and Sunshine can arrange a trip out here, but its almost as easy (and slightly cheaper) to catch a shared taxi just below the large bridge south of the central part of town. One of the great monasteries of the Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism, Kumbum is a stunning collection of temples, chortens and stupas. Its significance comes from the fact that it was built in the 1600s atop the birthplace of the founder of the Yellow Hat sect (Gelugpa). Its significance is not overlooked by the always enterprising Chinese government. There is an admission fee, ATMs and Chinese tour groups are not an uncommon sight. The town around the monastery is being ‘spruced up’ and there will no doubt be hundreds of souvenir shops lining the path to the temples when the dust settles. Here is that ATM just inside the front gate to the monastery.

Inside the complex the scene is not that much more authentic. Perhaps it’s because we had visited so many monasteries prior to our visit here, but we found that this place lacked the heart and soul that the others seemed to have. Where the monks in other monasteries were engaging and active, here they seemed as if it were a job and they were being forced or paid to hang around. While we couldn’t necessarily put a finger on it, the atmosphere here was decidedly less magical than in Tongren or Xiahe.

Despite the atmosphere the buildings themselves were pretty impressive. The architecture and wildly vivid paintings helped liven up the air and remind us that despite the government’s best efforts, the Tibetan culture lives on through their art.

Back in Xining, in the heart of the town we stumbled upon a place that reminded us that Buddhism isn’t the only religion in town. The city boasts one of the largest mosques in China which services the Hui population – a spillover from China’s ‘Stan’ neighbors to the west. This particular mosque is off limits to non-Muslims, and the outside is not as ornate as other Mosques we have seen, but people watching outside and strolling the Islamic quarter with its vast array of fascinating shops was an interesting eye opener in a nation not commonly associated with Islam.

Back outside the city of Xining we headsx to the east a few kilometers to visit the beautiful monastery of Youning Si. Meandering up the side of the hill the monastery once boasted over 7000 monks and was instrumental in establishing the Yellow Hat sect of Buddhism in the Amdo region. Founded by the 4th Dali Lama, a Mongolian, the monastery became the main worship center for the Tu, descendants of the Mongolians. The monastery became famous for its study of astrology and medicine. Today, it is but a fraction of its glory days but the setting is non-the-less stunning. The overcast and rainy day only added to the atmosphere and when the drizzle turned to a downpour, we were invited in out of the elements into the home of a monk and his family. Sharing a loaf of bread and some tea, we mostly exchanged smiles and pleasantries but it was an interesting experience to see the simple home and how they live.

Near Youning Si, but off limits to visitors is the childhood home of the current Dali Lama. China keeps tabs on who comes and goes from here and most taxi drivers will not go near the place. It’s still an interesting footnote to just how important the Amdo region is to the Tibetan Buddhists and adds to the significance of the area.

The Amdo region proved to be a fascinating look into the lives of Tibetans without having to break the bank on getting to Tibet itself. Having our fill of monasteries, we hopped on board the overnight train headed to Xian. Next stop: The Famous Terracotta Warriors of Xian!

Painting Thangkas in Tongren, China (Gansu Province)

2011-06-13T09:39:00.000-06:00

Stats:

Destination: Tongren, China (Qinghai Province)

Number of Days Spent: 1 day

Where we stayed: We had originally thought of staying here for a night but opted to head on to Xining the same day so we could spend the time exploring around there instead.

Best restaurant: On the bus between Xiahe and Tongren don’t miss the yak yogurt! It’s deliciously creamy and tangy (at least Tracy thought so anyways).

Best of: We made the best of our time here by visiting a few more monasteries as well as shopping for the ‘perfect’ thangka (Tibetan art), a local man at the Rongwo Gonchen Gompa was especially friendly, giving us a quick tour of the massive complex

Worst of: Either the hotels in town didn’t want to take foreigners or they really were full – either way they were off putting and the one recommended in LP was the rudest of all (You Zheng Binguan). We had a hard time convincing someone just to watch our bags for a couple of hours so we could explore.

We took the only bus from Xiahe to Tongren at the wonderfully early hour of 6am. Despite the early hour of departure, we were rewarded with views of the valleys and mountains as well as a little snow as we went through the pass. Yes, it was June 1st and snowing. The snow quickly dissipated and after a quick stop to pick up yogurt – one of Tracy’s favorite food items in China, we arrived in Tongren around 10:00am. After some pleading with the hotel clerk, they finally agreed to keep our bags for the day and we were off to check out the Wutun Si Monastery.

Down the hill about 6km from town sits the Wutun Si Monastery. The monastery is actually split into two separate sections about 1km apart. The lower part was nearly completely under construction at the time of our visit and aside from the sound of a few electric saws and hammers, one might think the entire place was disserted. As with so much of China, this area appears to be a work in progress but the parts that were visible appeared to have received a recent coat of paint.

In between the upper and lower monasteries sits several artisan workshops. The area is famous for producing some of the highest quality Tibetan paintings, such as the one pictured at the beginning of the post, with commissions coming in from all over the Buddhist world. A work such as the one at the beginning of the post can take up to a year to produce and sells for around $1000 US to $1500 US – a fairly good wage for this area but considering the time and effort – a steal of a deal. After shopping around we ended up taking home a couple of paintings – far smaller and much less expensive than the mural above.

The upper monastery was a bit more intact with less construction and there were monks there that took us around and let us in to see the riot of colors in each prayer hall and temple. Sometimes we can take for granted all those amazing colors and the amount of detail that goes into creating each and every one of these temples. From the hand woven prayer flags to the intricately carved wooden overhangs the buildings are works of art in and of themselves.

Back in town, we decided to forgo food and opt to check out the main monastery in town – the Rongwo Gonchen Gompa.

Unlike the Wutun Monastery that focused on the art and painting, this monastery had more of a “tourist” feel to it. Generally speaking, when they charge to see it and even more for a ‘guided’ tour you know you have found the ones that the government has taken over for the sake of tourism. That’s not to say that they are not monasteries – they are in every sense of the word, but you can sense a certain feeling in the air of distain for the situation. I suppose I would too if you charged admission to see my culture and loaded up people on big bus tours to come invade my church for a back seat view of private rites and rituals all for the sake of making a buck. We reluctantly paid the entrance fee but refused the guided services opting instead to just wander around a bit. The man who sold us the tickets, came out and decided that it was slow and he wanted to practice his English so he gave us the ‘tour’ for free anyways.

I say ‘tour’ because it was more of just opening up locked doors and making sure we didn’t get lost in the maze of buildings that line the hillside. He also explained that the chanting and praying, along with the huge horns that were being blown were being done in mourning for the lives lost in the recent earthquakes that ravaged the town of Yushu, one of the largest Tibetan communities outside of Tibet.

The man was quite friendly and even helped us get a taxi at the last minute to take us back to hotel to get our bags, wait for us, and then on to the bus station for a reasonable price. Back on the road, we had one last stop to make before leaving the Amdo region – the modern city of Xining!

Ganja Grasslands – Xiahe, China (Gansu Province)

2011-06-09T09:28:00.000-06:00

A short day trip outside of Xiahe is the Ganja Grasslands. We opted to rent a taxi with two other travelers for the day. It’s fairly easy to get out here. Just flag down a taxi, negotiate a price & point to where you want to go from your guidebook and then haggle a little.

The rolling hills and plains are a stunning canvas in which to find herds of sheep, yak and cattle grazing.

The area is also home to several of these small walled villages. Dating back over 2000 years, the walls surrounding the village are from the Han dynasty. Be forewarned that they will collect a small ‘entrance fee’ if you step one foot out of your cab. It was a small fee (10-15rmb/less than $2), but the lack of signage or notification that you would be charged for looking at a village led to a small argument with the ‘mayor’. There’s really not much to see anyways, but the fact that you can walk on 2000 year old walls is pretty cool.

Dotting the area are also numerous caves, most of which are considered sacred. Unfortunately, the caves are inaccessible due to a tourist fatality a couple of years ago. The area also is home to a couple of small monasteries, one of which I nearly took a tumble at stepping where I thought there was solid ground. All I managed to do was rip their plastic tarp covering the loose dirt. Fortunately, the couple we were traveling with happened to be carrying duct tape which we used to patch up the flimsy plastic as they scolded us in Chinese for walking through a construction site.

International crisis averted, we headed back to Xiahe and prepared for the trip over the mountain pass to our next stop – Tongren.

Walking the Kora, Almost in Tibet – Xiahe, China (Gansu Province)

2011-06-06T09:21:00.001-06:00

Stats:

Destination: Xiahe, China (Gansu Province)

Number of Days Spent: 3 days

Where we stayed: Overseas Tibetan Hotel – Nothing special, but then again, this town didn’t really have anything too special in the way of hostels or hotels. Unheated rooms and fluctuations in water were a common theme in all the accommodations in town. We arrived while the entire town was without water.

Best restaurant: Gesar Restaurant on the street perpendicular to main street, close to the entry of the monastery (thanks www.uncorneredmarket.com for the recommendation). Slurp your delightful soup and enjoy wondeful Tibetan momos with local monks and Tibetan pilgrims at the cute little hole in the wall place directly opposite the Kora.

Best of: Fantastic Tibetan Labrang Monastery, lush green grasslands with Yak and sheep, the many faces of religious pilgrims completing their Koras every morning and evening.

Worst of: The entire town lost water while we were there and it was quite cold up on the Tibetan plateau.

The smell of burning Yak Butter wafts through the air. Crimson robed monks spin prayer wheels as they circumambulate (walk around) the temple. An intoxicating array of vibrant colors adorn every wall, door and statue. Tibet proper it may not be, but there is little doubt this region is Tibetan in nature. Welcome to the Amdo region.

The Amdo Region of China, some might argue, is more authentic than TIbet itself. The Chinese government has for years worked on making Tibet more Chinese. The train now runs all the way to Lhasa carrying with it thousands of Chinese workers. With the influx of Chinese influences coupled with thousands of tourists flocking to see sights such as Potala palace and Mt. Everest the real Tibet may seem a bit crowded and manufactured these days. If you are perhaps looking for an authentic and off the beaten path adventure, then perhaps Xiahe and the Amdo region are your answer.

In Xiahe (pronounced shuh huh with an almost cough like sort of lung hacking emphasis on the huh part) the dusty main road bustles with pilgrims young and old, Tibetan women with sleeping babies strapped to their backs buy from shops and other people in the streets while little old ladies walk and gossip about life. And the best part? The scene is real. No pre-manufactured, cookie cutter scenes filled with what the Chinese government wants you to see. This is the rural Tibetan landscape that the hippie’s found in the 60’s and 70’s a little further up the plateau. This is the Tibet that continues to fight against the seemingly insurmountable odds of one day regaining a sovereign nation.

Getting here was not overly difficult, but they do from time to time close the region off to foreigners, including the ones that live here. In the yellow hat sect, the same sect of Buddhism that the Dalai Lama belongs to, the Labrang Monastery is one of the six major monasteries. Having arrived just after Buddha’s Birthday, the temple was buzzing with pilgrims. The monastery is capped at 1200 monks and covers a space that is 3km in circumference.

Along with the 1200 monks, their living quarters and learning centers, the complex also has several temples and chapels. While you are free to walk about outside the buildings, to enter into many of the chapels and prayer halls, you have to sign up for a tour. The tour takes you around to several buildings. Some are filled with dusty relics in glass cases while others contain candles fueled by yak butter illuminating statues of Buddha and rows of cushions lining the floors for apprentice monks to meditate on. Of course the yak butter sculpture room comes standard with any tour of a Tibetan monastery.

Everyday we were in Xiahe, we would walk the kora in the morning and explore the monastery and people watch for a little while. The vibrant colors and the smell of burning yak butter are instantly recognizable and one of a kind. Being an outsider, its difficult to get under the skin of the people here and to experience their frustrations with the government and their wishes to have an independent Tibet once again.

Their independence day may never come, but the culture and traditions of a religiously devout population live on despite the government’s best efforts. One of the must humbling sites to me are to watch the people that do the 3km kora taking three steps, then bow, then lay flat on the ground, then stand up and repeat. I am told that they will complete this same walk multiple times per pilgrimage. How many of us in our religious lives spend more than an 1-2 hours a week praying or worshiping let alone entire days at a time, multiple times a year physically exerting ourselves to the point of exhaustion. To me, that’s devotion of a deeper understanding – one that my simple mind cannot comprehend.

Beyond its religious importance to the region, Xiahe is also an excellent base for exploring the grasslands where Yak and sheep roam, or at least once did! Next post – the Ganjia Grasslands!

Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday–Lanzhou

2011-03-24T16:05:00.000-06:00

Stats:

Destination: Lanzhou, China (Gansu Province)

Number of Days Spent: 1 day

Where we stayed: We arrived via flight very late at night and went directly into the hotel near the the bus drop off at (it was late and we just wanted to sleep. It had a swanky looking entry way but a tired, musty smelling room but it was just for the night so we settled in. After looking around Lanzhou (which has earned the distinction of one of China’s most polluted cities) the next day I’m not sure we could have done better anyways. There’s little tourist traffic in this town and the Chinese businessmen are not quite as discerning about where they stay.

Best restaurant: I can’t remember anything standing out. Does an ice cream cone at McDonald’s count?

Best of: After being told we would have to wait for bus tickets and leaving our passports with the ticket-taker we hoofed it to the local temple where we were surprised to find out that it was Buddha’s birthday!

Worst of: We flew into Lanzhou in order to get closer to the Amdo Tibetan area. Unfortunately we arrived at the bus station only to be informed that there would be a delay in getting bus tickets and that we should return later in the day. We didn’t relish spending a lot of time in the polluted city but decided to make the best of it and to visit one of the local temples instead.

Lanzhou is like standing in a long line for a ride at Disneyland – you dread the time spent in line, but do it for the reward at the end of the line. Our intention was to land at night and get on the first bus to Xiahe (loosely pronounced shhh huh) the next morning. After arriving at the bus station, we were informed that we would have to wait while they ran a check on our passports. The government is always suspicious of Tibetan unrest and moves rather quickly if there is any notion of dissent. Since we were western and heading into a Tibetan area, they wanted to make sure we were not “trouble makers”.

Having the extra 4 hours of ‘standing in line’, we opted to leave our bags at the station and head down to the river to check out a couple of temples. Sometimes things happen for a reason and by the end of the day, we were thankful that we had been delayed. It was Buddha’s birthday!

Burning Incense, candles and paper (prayers?) filled the air with a dense cloud of smoke. Devotees filled the square around the temples giving prayers and offerings while monks chanted away inside the temple. With Lanzhou being a work-a-day town there were no flash bulbs going off, no trample of tourists, just us and the common people doing their religious duties faithfully.

We quietly strolled around the temple just taking in the atmosphere. Sometimes, standing in line isn’t all that bad.

After we had sufficiently killed the 4 hours, we headed back over to the bus station. Without further delay, and perhaps seeing us as non-threatening, gave us back our passports and allowed us to board the bus bound for Xiahe, Gansu Province!

“Wildlife is not Food” – Giant Pandas and Chicken Head Soup: Chengdu, Sichuan, China

2011-03-18T16:08:00.002-06:00

Stats:
Destination: Chengdu, China (Sichuan Province)
Number of Days Spent: 4 days
Where we stayed: Chengdu Lazy Bones Boutique Hostel – about $20 for a private double with ensuite bathroom (with free breakfast & wifi) – We really liked this new hostel. It was very clean, quiet and centrally located on multiple bus lines (near the soon to be metro as well). The free bike tour is not to be missed, we had a terrific time exploring the streets and markets of Chengdu with the friendly guide. She even hooked us up with some super spicy mouth-numbing Sichuan lunch dishes. Please don’t miss it if you are staying here. The other tours, including the countryside tour, received rave reviews from other travelers. We booked the panda tour with them and it was ok but had more of a “tour” type feeling to it as it was combined with quite a few people from their sister hostel, Mix. Still, it well worthwhile as it was the only way short of a taxi to get to the pandas in the early morning. We really enjoyed our hostel, but Chengdu is one of those rare places were competition in the hostel segment has really taken over. We heard good reports from nearly every person we met about their respective hostel so I think that most choices would be just fine.
Best restaurant: Tracy Loves Sichuan food, the spicier the better. We only had 1 bad meal in Chengdu (see below for our chicken head story). While Jason could live out his days content without the numbing effects of the Sichuan peppercorn, Tracy could not get enough.
Best of: We came to Chengdu to see the pandas but the city is so much more than that. We walked away thinking that we could have spent a lot more time there. It’s such a laid-back, clean city with a vibrant tea culture. We whiled away hours playing cards and sipping on tea just like the locals in the park! No matter your personal traveling style – from grungy backpacker to high budget vacations, the city of Chengdu should get some strong consideration for any extended itinerary in China.
Other Amusements: More Chinglish signs and an interesting baby-carrier…

Worst of: We arrived from our border run (visa renewal) trip to Hong Kong simply starving and late at night. The hostel told us there might be a hot pot place around the corner still open so we decided to go check it out. We knew we were in trouble when Tracy’s asks for “tofu” and the lady cackles with a rhetorical “No dofu. ummmm chicken o fish?” Opting for the land feathered variety, the lady emerges from the back moments later carrying a big ‘hot pot’ filled with broth, veggies and poultry. On the very first stir and grab of the chopsticks out emerges the head of our feathered friend. We laughed for a bit, ate a few of the veggies and called it good. It’s a good thing we keep a stash of Oreos in our backpack for such emergency situations!

Left off so many itineraries for being out of the way, Chengdu was one of the more surprising places we visited. Chengdu is the 5th largest city in the worlds most populated country but one would probably not guess that statistic just by being in the city. Sure it has the high-rises and sprawl that accompany so many cities, but the feeling you get here is vastly different than that experienced in the likes of Shenzhen, Kunming or many other Chinese metropolis. Bikes are still very much a preferred mode of transportation for many and the roads are actually designed to accommodate them with bike lanes. The constant traffic that plagues so many other towns is somehow more subdued here, perhaps thanks to the cities better than average bus system. The most telling difference, however, comes in the form of a somewhat lost scene in modern China – the tea house.
Nestled in amongst green space, ample shade trees and temples across the city are countless teahouses. Most offer al fresco ambiance with a long menu ranging from a $2 pot of tea to $20+ pots of tea. Sitting down and whiling away a couple of hours chatting with friends over tea and a game is the quintessential Chengdu experience – no offense to Giant Pandas intended.
We took our trusty pack of playing cards and after a leisurely stroll through the park passing exercise crazed Chinese doing some form of Tai Chi set to dance music, we settled in to a $4 pot of tea (free refills), played some cards and watched the world go by. When you are on the road for so long going from place to place and trying to see everything there is to see, it is in these moments that you find a rewarding peace that rejuvenates the soul. Ok, so it was a pot of tea in the park over a game of cards, enough waxing on about the quieter side of life.
In a nation that is quickly embracing all things of the future, Chengdu is one of the few places that is trying to keep at least one foot planted in the past. Aside from the traditional teahouses, they also try and keep many of the arts alive. One such famous medium is the Sichuan Opera. While I am not sure were the Opera part comes in as the show bears little resemblance to what we think of as an Opera the show is none the less highly entertaining. The highlight of the show comes with the ‘face changers’. Hidden in the headdresses, the actors switch out masks using a slight of hand that would make Houdini jealous. The all male show, some dressed as women, also includes fire breathing and there is a simple plot that is relatively easy to follow despite the language barriers.

A trip to Chengdu would not be complete without a trip out to see it’s most popular citizens – the Giant Pandas. These furry gentle beasts have been virtually relegated to a captive life as their natural habit has shrunk over the years from human encroachment. The Breeding and Research Base is actually one of a couple in China and resembles more of a zoo than a natural habitat, but the animals appear to be content and a group of this many pandas would need thousands of acres of bamboo forests to roam – something that is rapidly dwindling in China. The main aim of the center is to help the Pandas breed. It’s a tall task considering they seem to have just enough energy to accomplish two tasks everyday – eat and sleep. They only have one food source – bamboo – which holds very little nutritional or energy value meaning that they have to eat copious amounts every day just to have enough energy to, yep, you guessed it – eat and sleep. They are on the endangered species list for a reason.
Laziness aside, they are infinitely cute and there cannot be a soul alive that doesn’t fall in love with these guys at first sight. Most Hostels have trips that are slightly more expensive than the public bus – which takes one transfer and over an hour to get out here just before nap time. Alternatively, a taxi can get you out here and back for about double the cost but you have as much time as you wish. However you get here, make sure you get here early – before 10am to see them eating, otherwise it’s can be a bit of a snooze fest . . . literally.

Looking more like a raccoon than a Panda, the research center boasts a handful of red Pandas as well. Cute, but no match for their Giant cousins.

Another highly recommended thing to do in Chengdu is to get on a bike and ride. For a city of 12+ million people, it’s surprisingly easy to get around by bike. Many hostels, including ours, offer free bIcycle tours, including the bicycle. The tour takes you to several of the main temples, parks and the local market. On the way to the market, we passed by these ladies banging on their drums. The troupe is hired by new businesses as a sort of grand opening festivity. Whether they were practicing or actually performing we couldn’t tell.

Turtles, alligators, frogs, sea mollusks, sea cucumbers and star fish might not be tops on the list on a western menu, but in China they are considered a special treat. The often times superstitious Chinese take the phrase “You are what you eat” to a whole new level. Many traditions hold that by eating certain animals one can bring about various outcomes – live longer, bring good luck, increase wealth. Invariably all of these outcomes are far out shadowed by the ever popular virility result. Ahhh yes, all over the world when it comes to eating strange things the purveyor of said strange food will say something to the effect of “good for making baby” or “good for man parts” or “make good strong boy”. In a nation that only has one shot at producing offspring, many look for any way to ensure that it’s of the X chromosome nature. The world around them may be rapidly changing, but every Chinese man wants what he has wanted for 1000’s of years – a male to carry on the family. It was in this context, as we were wandering around the market, that we saw a man shell out nearly $200 US for one turtle.

After departing the market, we continued the bike tour taking in several temples along the way. the Cultural Revolution took its toll on Chinese religions, but they have certainly made a comeback. Chengdu was also the first real place where the Tibetan culture could be seen and felt so far in our journey.

We ended the day on the bikes by the ever present Chairman Mao statue (every town of significant size has one of these – Chengdu’s is reportedly one of the largest).

While in Chengdu, we explored the option of going to Tibet. After weighing the finances vs. reward we decided for a cheaper option – albeit not Lhasa or Tibet proper. Packing our bags we decided to head north to visit one of the lesser known and even lesser visited Amdo Tibetan Region. Before we could get there however, we had to pass through what was once known as the “World’s most polluted city.” Excited? We certainly were.

Three Pagodas, some Sleepy Fish and excellent Gyozas: Dali, Yunnan Province, China

2011-03-09T22:41:00.001-07:00

Destination: Dali, China

Number of Days Spent: 5 days

Where we stayed: Sleepy Fish – 120 RMB per night ($25-$30). This was our favorite guest house in China. It was Immaculately clean, had English native hosts, western beds (read: not hard as rocks), hot water with excellent pressure, WiFi, tourist information, a DVD selection, book exchange (pretty limited though) and best of all, real Western coffee for breakfast! And pancakes, peanut butter toast & local yogurt to boot! After weeks of Nescafe & noodle soup we were in breakfast heaven! We could have stayed for a LONG time if we didn’t have other pressing things to see and made the best of our situation by lingering over breakfast every single morning (one more coffee please)!

Best restaurant: Dali is somewhat of a tourist haven and as such, has a great selection of restaurants, including the best gyoza restaurant we tried in China (this retired couple made them fresh right in front of us and had a yummy menu with lots of meat and vegetarian options). Here are some of our favorite restaurants:

Dumplings/Gyoza – Ask at Sleepy FIsh! Cheap gyoza (both steamed & fried) & cold beer. We were the only westerners there when we visited and received the recommendation from the folks at Sleepy Fish (they also translated the menu for the couple that own it). If you like gyoza try this place! The dumplings are made on order so prepare for a bit of a wait that’s well worth it.
Indian – Of your craving some spicy masala then look no further than Om Shanti. We came here a couple of times and the food was excellent.
Coffee, cakes & sandwiches (also cheese & western bread for picnics)- Bakery 88, our second choice was Black Dragon Cafe – nothing out of this world about either, but if you are needing a real cheese and wine fix, then look no further.
Pizza – Stella’s Pizzeria – above average pizza with an above average price tag to match

Best of: Western comfort at our hotel after 5 months of traveling through Burma, India & China. For Dali we enjoyed doing the walk around the mountain for great views of the city. The market we visited (about 90 minutes outside of Dali) wasn’t touristy at all and was quite interesting.

Worst of: Worst toilets in the WORLD!!!! They were so disgusting I can’t even describe them because remembering it makes me feel sick to my stomach. And they charged us 0.10 RMB to use them (about $.03)…the audacity! This is a photo of a “normal” toilet, this one found on the hiking trail on the mountain…now imagine the bad ones!

Most Memorable: Watching the man at the gyoza shop roll out his hand-made gyoza and trying out our (very) limited Chinese with him. We went multiple times and he never failed to have a smile for us!

Rounding out our time in the Yunnan Province, we made our last real stop in the town of Dali. Proving that all things are cyclical, this town in the 70’s and 80’s was the hot stop to get in touch with the local Bai minority tribe without any crowds. Word got out and by the mid 90’s Dali was ‘the next big thing’. Today, the increase of Lijang’s popularity has stolen some of the spotlight away and Dali is not as crowded as perhaps it once was not so long ago. Perhaps in 10 years that statement will be reversed once again, but until that day comes, enjoy Dali as it is now.

With all the talk of being overrun it’s easy to overlook what made Dali so popular in the first place. Dali lies nestled between the Green mountains and beautiful Erhai Lake. With an elevation change of around 2000M (6500 feet) the scene is quite stunning. Despite the rapid change, the town itself is pancake flat making it a pleasure to explore by foot or bike.

Being home to the Yunnan government for centuries, Dali also boasts a rich and storied past. Its iconic three pagodas not only serves as a symbol for the town, but the region as well. Getting outside the historic city walls, one can find one of the largest ethnic minority in China – the Bai. Dressed in iconic blue garbs, the villages around the lake boast weekly/biweekly markets on a rotation so it makes it fairly easy to check out one of the markets.

We took a couple of days to explore the villages and markets around Dali, a couple of days to explore the town itself and on the last day, we headed up the mountain for our eye in the sky view.

The villages around the lake proved to be no less interesting than similar size villages we had visited from other minorities. A common theme throughout rural China remains: the older inhabitants LOVE games. Cards, chess, and apparently in this area, bocce ball, are all favorite past times that any self-respecting Chinese worth their weight in dice practice faithfully.

Many of these villages are located along the tranquil shores of the lake making for a pleasant stroll down cobblestone streets. We may have taken the dusty local bus to get there, but the tour groups take in the villages in style – boat cruises are increasing in popularity and in amongst the abject poverty, a couple of fancy hotels have cropped up taking advantage of the scenery and year round moderate climate.

Colorful, festive, and cheap. . .well. . . made in China goods abound in the local markets. These days the markets are heavier on industrial goods than handy crafts but if you are after how the average Chinese citizen shops and lives, then look no further. Local produce and ‘fresh’ meat can always be found. This market was also home to the worst bathroom visit to date. Concrete trough, no water and literally piles of feces on what I suppose could be called a floor. To top it off they charged a nominal fee for the pleasure.

As with many parts of China, the rice patty is never too far away. I am always amazed that each and every plant is still transplanted by hand and meticulously cared for. Once again, tending the rice fields seems to be the work of women as rarely will you find men working the rice fields.

Not to be overshadowed by the minority villages and the lake, the town of Dali is a well designed grid of streets protected by a wall, much of which has been reproduced in a tasteful way.

The Green Mountains that loom high over the town scream out “hey don’t forget about us up here.” The government has taken steps to make sure that doesn’t happen. Gondolas have been installed complete with piped in nature sounds. 15 minutes later you arrive high up the mountain where a paved path snakes along the ridge providing sweeping panoramas of the town, lake, and pagodas below. The path is relatively flat making for a highly enjoyable stroll. We packed along some wine and cheese we picked up at the delightful Bakery 88. Once at the other end, we boarded a rather rickety chairlift that returned us back to earth.

From Dali, the first leg of our Visa was complete so we had to make a visa run. We took a bus back to Kunming for the night, flew to Shenzhen, crossed the border into Hong Kong, turned around and went back to the Shenzhen airport that afternoon to catch a flight to our next destination – Chengdu!

On the Tea-Horse Caravan Trail in Shaxi, China

2011-02-03T21:42:00.001-07:00

Destination: Shaxi, China

Number of Days Spent: 1 day

Where we stayed: We stopped in transit between Lijiang and Dali (stopping at the hot springs enroute for the night, if you’re interested ask the family at Mu’s Garden Inn in Lijiang for the hotel information).

Best restaurant: It’s the only one in Lonely Planet and it’s connected to a Bed & Breakfast. I think it was called the Laomadian Lodge and the restaurant called the Karma Café. We thought about staying the night but the rooms were rather pricey. However, the food was worth the splurge, the beer was icy cold and the food, well it was DELICIOUS, including the yak meat!

Best of: We were invited into an old couple’s home for a tour (no English spoken of course) of their house complete with wood carvings and a room dedicated to ancestor worship.

Worst of: Transport connections to Shaxi were quite slow. We had to wait for quite a while for the shared van to depart (60-90 minutes on the way back). We nearly missed our connecting bus, but as with nearly all things in China it just works.

Most Memorable: We ate yak meat and it was actually good!

Crumbling facades, wall to wall souvenir stalls, and the sudden absence of hawkers make the little village of Shaxi seem lost in time. Once an important stop on trade routes, the village is now a shell of its former glory receiving little more than a trickle of visitors, but that’s for all the better. The government has went to great lengths to promote this part of Yunnan and the ability for Shaxi to hold on to the past is a feat in itself.

The place was nearly deserted on the day that we visited, just a handful of old men and kids. After seeing the hoards of tour groups and buses in Lijiang, it was nice to see this place left alone . . . at least for now.

After leaving Shaxi, we stopped one more time on our way to Dali at what was billed as a ‘hot spring’. While the place had more of a ‘Bates Motel’ feel than ‘Treasure Island’, it wasn’t all that bad and the pool was welcoming enough. It was a nice way to break up an otherwise rough journey.

Next stop, Dali!

Hiking Tiger Leaping Gorge: A Photo Story

2011-02-01T09:57:00.000-07:00

Destination: Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan Province of China

Number of Days Spent: 2 days

Where we stayed: Tea-Horse Guesthouse – 40 RMB for a double room (twin beds) and shared bathroom

Best restaurant: The Naxi Family Guesthouse was cute and had tasty food that prepared us for the 28 Bends, the most difficult part of the hike. We also enjoyed a dinner at Tea-Horse with the ‘world’s longest menu’ after the first day’s hike.

Best of: Playing a hand of cards and drinking a cold, well earned, beer at the end of our first day of tough hiking while the sun set behind the majestic mountains with the gorge below.

Worst of: Rock hard beds, a hose for a ‘solar heated’ shower and toilets that left much to be desired. But this is the great outdoors people so it was all expected.

Most Memorable: Don’t forget to stop at the Halfway House to use their famous “Bathroom with a View”

Useful Tips: Come armed with directions. Please see below (compliments of Wiki-Travel):

From Qiaotou: From the ticket office, walk along the road till you reach the school gate. Stay on the road, following the schools grey-white wall till its end where painted arrows point up an embankment at the beginning of the trek. From here keep to the well worn path and follow the plentiful painted red/yellow arrows. A misleading fake path before the school forks off at a brick wall painted with fading arrows. People may tell you it is the right way, but stay on the road to the school. (If the road to the school is under construction you may have to take this one.

About 10km later, at Tina's there is a trail down to the river. You can come back up to Tina's two ways (Tianti (the heavenly ladder), or Teacher Zhang's trail) or take a trail that goes a little ways down the river before coming back up a little farther down the road.

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After jumping on a bus from LIjiang to Qiaotou we set off to hike the Tiger Leaping Gorge! At first I was worried that it would be too difficult for me to handle, after all we’ve been traveling for 2 years now and I was in rather dubious shape. The first few hours were pretty easy, a steady uphill hike but nothing to get too bothered about. The views were outstanding!

After a quick rest and lunch at the Naxi Family Guesthouse we decided it was time to move on, getting ready for the notorious 28 Bends, the hardest part of the hike. After shaking the men on horseback, “No thanks, we actually want to walk….”, we set off. They were right, the 28 Bends were difficult, a series of switchbacks and steps leading through the dirt. We made it though! Proud of our progress we had to stop for a celebratory photo (the views just kept getting better and better)!

The rest of the day’s walk was pretty easy but we were tired from the uphill hike and decided to stop a little early knowing we could easily finish the next day. The setting sun was savored over a cold beer!

The next morning we woke before sunrise and watched the rays of the sun raising over the majestic mountains. After a stop at Halfway House for some noodles, banana pancakes & a quick stop at their famed ‘bathroom with a view’ we headed on down the mountain to the end of the trail.

We met up with other travelers at TIna’s at the bottom of the mountain to organize transport back to town. Our ride back to town was delayed due to blasting in the area as they are ‘fixing’ the road. Be wary!!! Our car drove us to the edge of this, we covered our faces with scarves so we could breathe and picked our way gingerly over the rocks….not exactly how we wanted to finish our hike. The dust was EVERYWHERE and we kept furtively glancing up to make sure we weren’t going to be smacked in the head by a rock. We safely made it across where another driver was waiting to take us the rest of the way into town. I couldn’t resist taking a shot of our ‘near death experience’! It was not an experience I’m keen to repeat!

Rock Slides and steep climbs behind us, we made our way back to Lijiang for a well earned rest before heading off to our next destination – Dali!

Snapshot Sunday: Sunrise at Angkor Wat

2011-01-30T12:44:00.001-07:00

This is a flashback shot from our first trip to Asia. We visited friends in Thailand, spent some time lazing around the beach and visited the ruins of Angkor Wat. We were wowed by so many things at Angkor, and the sunrise was no exception!

Paying a visit to the Selling Grass Market for a little dose of Dr. Ho’s Magic Tea – Lijiang, China

2011-01-27T08:58:00.001-07:00

Destination: Lijiang, China

Number of Days Spent: 3 days

Where we stayed: Mu’s Garden Guesthouse – 90-100 RMB (we arrived and negotiated this on the spot, advance bookings are a bit more in price, I think 120 RMB) – This place is a cute little find, an old house in the traditional Chinese style! The rates were reasonable, rooms clean and centrally located on a quiet lane but near the main shops of the old city. The family that ran the hotel was quite friendly. It comes with wireless Internet and the family is happy to whip you up some yummy Yunnan tea to relax in the courtyard. They are also very willing to give you maps and recommendations for hiking the nearby Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Best restaurant: We found everything in the Lonely Planet to be waaaay overpriced and of low quality. We have three places of note. In the “Selling Grass Square” on the 2nd floor look for N’s Kitchen for delicious pizzas (also free Wifi)! After weeks of Chinese only food we were delighted to find a bit of western deliciousness! If you are looking for something more local don’t miss the yak yogurt place, An Yogurt or Am Yogurt (2 locations in Lijiang). Look for the multi-colored post-its with love notes written on them. Try it with fresh papaya or mango, it is DELICIOUS! Tracy had it every single day we were in Lijiang (and once she had it twice)! Oh and there is a little steamed bun place (sorry, it was only in Chinese so I don’t have a name) that was on the outskirts of the old city away from the tourists We had them for breakfast every morning and brought them on the road to Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Best of: The Jade Dragon Mountain was beautiful. Bike riding along the highway was a bit over-rated but the towns along the route were quite cute and we enjoyed seeing people at their daily tasks as we biked along. We met “world famous” Dr. Ho and sampled some of his “healthy tea.” He was quite a character.

Worst of: Lijiang is an overly touristy made up little city. It’s beautiful but somehow it’s so fake that it takes away from its beauty. It’s one of the most touristy places in China, it’s not just international tourists, Chinese tourists descend upon the city in droves and in in matching red hats usually following a tour guide with an umbrella for a flag poll.

Most Memorable: This was our first real experience with Chinglish signs which delighted us:

“WIne & dine quietly and healthily. Do not waste food!”

“Don’t forget to keep civilized behavior during outing and also shopping should be rational.”

“Selling grass Place”

“No Naked fire here, please"

Having spent the past couple of weeks in some of the poorest parts of China, we both felt we needed a little break from the ‘real’ China. Lijiang is about as far from that moniker as they come.

In what has become a growing trend all over China, the once quaint and charming village of Lijiang known mostly as being a jumping off point for the Tiger Leaping Gorge has been transformed into one of the most visited tourist attractions. The government has dumped millions of dollars into several of these beautification projects all over the country in the hopes of increasing tourism. The efforts seem to be working as most nights the streets were packed with hoards of people filing in and out of the numerous souvenir shops.

So sure the town is kitschy, but what in China isn’t? Besides if you were to make an old place new, and then make the new look old I don’t think anyone could argue that the results are not visually stunning. Cobblestone streets, brooks and streams running beneath stone bridges, and vibrantly colored lanterns hang all over the town. Add to that the absence of cars and its all a little too much to resist.

Buildings and streets may fit into the Chinese Government cookie cutter machine, but not all culture and tradition are lost. The Naxi tribe have called Lijiang home for nearly 1500 years and still are alive and well today. Existing as one of the few matriarchal societies, the women seem to run the affairs of the house, in particular, ‘flexible’ arrangements for love affairs.

Mandarin is widely spoken, but the Naxi still use a form of hieroglyphics – one of the few still in use in the world.

Nestled on the northern edge of town rests the stunningly beautiful Black Dragon Pool Park. Sure there’s an entrance fee and a few cultural exhibits but everyone comes here for the same reason – the view. Pond still waters, the year around snow-capped Jade Dragon Snow Mountains, pagodas and stone bridges come together for one of the quintessential shots in China.

From the park, we headed north of town on a couple of bikes. The surrounding villages are an easy bike ride away and while some of them are just as ‘beautified’ as Lijiang, the ride is flat and easy and passes through some of the prettiest countryside in China.

In the unassuming town of Baisha lives one of the legends of the area. He goes simply by the name of Dr. Ho and has been administering to the sick in this village for over 50 years and to many a traveller who have passed through. We checked in on the good doc who managed to wrangle us into his shop for some tea and a stroll down memory lane compliments of the hundreds of newspaper clippings and testimonials he has collected over the years. He was even featured in an article on MSNBC once, a testament to either his tea’s healing powers, or his charming personality. . . or perhaps a good mix of both!

Finishing our tea, we headed back to Lijiang and began to rest up for the next adventure – the two day hike of Tiger Leaping Gorge!

Snapshot Sunday: Morning Tea in Xiahe, China

2011-01-23T07:46:00.000-07:00

While walking the kora one morning in Xiahe, China we saw this monk carrying his morning the morning tea back to the monastery.

A Photo Story: Yuanyang’s Colorful Ethnic Markets

2011-01-12T12:17:00.000-07:00

Far from the organized tourist trail in China you’ll find Yuanyang. It’s similar to Sapa & Bac Ha in Vietnam and one of our favorite stops from our two months in China. Contact the Window to Yuanyang coffee shop for a market schedule before heading to Yuanyang and negotiate with a driver for a sunrise, market and sunset tour. We paid 250 RMB for the van for the day split between 6 people (roughly $5 per person) The market schedule rotates between villages based on the Chinese calendar (different animals for each day match up with a village where the market is scheduled that day). The markets are filled with Hani, Yi & Dai market-sellers and market-goers. It’s fascinating people watching, but we don’t have to tell you that, just check out the photos below!

The Stunning Rice Terraces of Yuanyang, China (Yunnan Province)

2011-01-10T13:14:00.001-07:00

Destination: Yuanyang (Xinjie), Yunnan Province, China

Where we Stayed: Photography Hotel – Instincts are usually right, unfortunately we don’t always listen to them. Such was the case when we were greeted by the owner of the “Photography Hotel” at the bus station. Ninety percent of the time the hotel that tries to drag people from the bus station to their hotel is desperate for a reason. The place was overpriced, water didn’t work right for any of the rooms and he lied to us about a few things. At least we had a friendly frog to keep us company while we tried to sleep on the mildew infested bed. The 6 of us that got off the bus as a group woke up the next morning with the same conclusion – get the hell out of here! We moved to one of the hotels in town (can’t remember the name though – it was nice but nothing special) and negotiated a discount for 3 rooms.

Best Restaurant: One of the many broken promises by the photography hotel was its promimity to other restaurants. If by proximity you mean within 5kms then he didn’t lie but walking to dinner that far after a long day already is hardly ideal. Fortunately the food was ok, but way overpriced, at the hotel the first night. After the fiasco at the Photography Hotel we moved into town and had two excellent meals, both off the main square and about half the price of the hotel. Look for the noodle shop for lunch and for dinner look for the restaurant with the fresh case, just go in and point at what you want.

If you’re looking for a coffee break and some information regarding photography spots and ethnic markets check out the Window of Yuanyang. They also have a book exchange and fairly priced crafts.

Best of: Simply breathtaking rice terraces, both for sunrise as well as for sunset. Absolutely no crowds.

Most memorable: Check China off the list of places we have driven in. Thanks to a communication error, we had to borrow the cook’s motorbike to get out to see sunset. A little illegal and a mild drop the bike moment, but no harm no foul.

Taking the night train from Kaili to Kunming (did we mention that Chinese trains are super comfortable) we thought we had left some of our language difficulties behind. We thought that Kunming would be a touristy enough place to have plenty of English speakers. A more cosmopolitan city with plenty of expats that would increase the use of English. We thought wrong.

Emerging from the train station, shaking off a couple of taxi touts, we managed to run into a cop who understood just enough of our primitive signing and pointing at Chinese characters in our phrasebook to get us to the right city bus. The only problem is that we had no idea where to get off the bus. An hour later and countless remarks to each other of, “Could this be it?” we arrived at the far south bus station, the last stop on the line…somehow it worked and we found our way to the long distance bus station right behind the one we arrived at. Another 6 hours on a bus, a purchase of lychees from an ethnic lady to feed our hunger, and we finally arrived at the rice terraces with just enough time to get to a hotel, check in, have a beer and catch the sunset.

The terraces were carved from the surrounding hills beginning centuries ago when China was divided into multiple kingdoms and each kingdom had to be self reliant. Having no natural farmland and an ever increasing population, the kingdoms had little choice but to begin creating useable farmland from the hills. Extensive irrigation channels were erected to channel just the right amount of water into the individual rice patties. One patty alone represents hundreds of hours of work making the collection of thousands all the more impressive. As it has been done for centuries, the rice is planted, tended, and harvested by animal and human power only. The rice season has four stages – planting, growing, harvesting and dormant. Each stage creates its own unique color and beauty making anytime of year a good time to visit.

Thanks to our beers and an inept hotel manager who was more concerned with selling us beers than taking care of us, we nearly missed the sunset for the first day. A little last minute improvisation involving a motorbike got us out to the terraces just a tad late, but not missing it entirely. Tracy is still upset at the man at the hotel for limiting our time to enjoy the sunset due to his poor planning. Despite the troubles, she still managed to get some amazing shots.

After a beautiful sunset, we organized a van for the six of us to take out for the whole day, sunrise to sunset. “Many restaurants around my hotel!” equaled none, unless you wanted to walk 5km back into town so we had little choice other than to eat at the hotel. Fortunately the cook was adequate and the meal was actually on the good side, albeit a bit overpriced.

While the sunset the first day was great, the sunrise the following morning blew us away. . . well most of us anyways – this little guy didn’t seem to be as awestruck as the rest of us!

The natural soft lighting and the rolling in of the early morning fog combined for a postcard type moment. We all sat in the jaw dropping moment, munching on boiled eggs from the kids mother, and enjoying the view virtually alone.

During planting season, the terraces are flooded and the workers transplant each individual sprout one by one slushing though mud and muck; bent over for hours on end. Many of the older generation walk hunched over for a reason - a lifetime of backbreaking work. I don’t think I will look at a box of minute rice the same way ever again.

After the sun had fully risen, we stopped a few more times throughout the day, taking in sweeping panoramic views as well as the ethnic markets that scatter the area (in the next posting!).

For sunset the next day, we headed to a different set of terraces. As if one massive mountain carved into levels wasn’t impressive enough, the entire area is covered with them. One hill after the other, all growing rice by hand and animal. These terraces, rather than being flooded with water, was already into the growing season and was a vibrant lush green.

Beautiful and amazing, the rice terraces of Yuanyang are a sight to behold. Amazingly there are few travellers that make it here and finding a peaceful moment isn’t difficult. Taking a break from the rice terraces and the amazing scenery, we next turn our attention to the equally as fascinating markets of the ethnic minority tribes (see next post).

Snapshot Sunday: Skateboarding Nun in Xiahe, China

2011-01-08T23:07:00.000-07:00

I couldn’t resist photographing this young nun as she was skateboarding towards us on the streets of Xiahe, China. Xiahe is the home of the Labrang Monastery which we will detail in an upcoming post. It’s well worth a trip for anyone in China but not able to make it all the way into Tibet. It’s in what the Tibetans consider the Amdo region of Tibet which is the birthplace of the Dalai Lama. It’s very colorful; a morning walk around the kora shouldn’t be missed! The monastery is full of monks, nuns and Tibetans that come with buckets of yak butter to keep the candles burning!

Munching on Delicious Rice Cakes while playing a game of Mahjong: Kaili, China

2011-01-07T22:17:00.001-07:00

The details:

Where: Kaili, Guizhou Province, China

Where we stayed: Heaven sent Dragon Hotel ($30-$35/night with breakfast, wifi, immaculate rooms & unlimited hot water) – after all our squat toilets and run down places, it was time for a little ‘luxury’…trust us, it was “heaven sent”! This was also the first place in China where we were actually turned away for being foreigners. Apparently there’s a lot of paperwork involved and an extra license so some hotels don’t want to bother with the hassle. After checking out the Petroleum Hotel (not recommended at all!) and being denied by many of the rest, we ended up at one of the nicest places in town.

Good Eats: Why did we not buy more! Rule of thumb – when you see lines it must be good. One of Kaili’s specialties are little rice cakes with peanuts held together with a touch of honey. While there are many imitations in town, the one down the alley in front of the hotel was always the busiest. We also had a delicious pizza like street snack from a vendor that sets up near the southeast corner of Yingpan Donglu and Shaoshan Beilu down a little ways on Yingpan. We also enjoyed a traditional Chinese hotpot meal at a fellow couchsurfer’s house, Min. Thank you Min for your hospitality and showing us around town a bit!

Best of: Best taste of ‘real’ China on our trip, cheap massages, street eats (a dying art thanks to crackdowns on food safety issues.)

Worst of: Hotels denying us a place to stay when we arrived, a couple of rainy days.

Most Memorable: One of the many memorable moments was compliments of Min by showing us where the $3 blind massage place was. It’s located on the second floor above the food court of the ‘mall’ and an excellent value, but be prepared for a strong massage that hurts in a good way the next day! Photo of the area is below:

Arguably the poorest part of the poorest province, Eastern Guizhou sees fewer tourists compared to the rest of the nation, but there are signs that that too is changing. All around this unassuming city lies some of the most unique and traditional Miao villages making it the ideal hub for travel around the region. As somewhat of a ‘last frontier’ the area is becoming increasingly popular with travelers that want to get off the beaten path. For those willing to go off schedule of the market days and tour group times, these villages can still be a unique experience with no other foreigners around for miles.

The Miao villages may be the main attraction, but Kaili has a few nuggets to offer the intrepid traveler if given enough time to work its charm. It’s own market attracts all the villagers from all over the region making it possible to see all the different minorities in the region in one spot. The downtown area has plenty of eateries and hotels giving you far more options than you would get in the villages and lets not forget about that $3 massage!

Kaili’s market plays host to a variety of vendors. From tofu to dog, dental services to haircuts – anything and everything can be had on market days.

Another aspect of market day that plays a vital role for the community is it’s social aspects. Something akin to what we would consider a lazy Sunday afternoon coffee, the Chinese men enjoy games.

Occasionally, a small group of men, such as this one, will get together and play their musical instruments. Despite breaking a few flimsy strings on his banjo, the musician, ever resourceful, found a way to continue the show.

Chinese chess and Mahjong are the two most popular games in China and one does not have to go far to catch a game in action. On market days, the number of people playing increases as squares fill and makeshift tables are set up all over.

Social aspects not only apply to the men and their games, but the women as well. Many women spend days making a couple of pieces of textiles to bring to market. Some are made with new threads while others are made with recycled materials, like old blue jeans. The combinations create a kaleidoscope of color and patterns that are distinct from one ethnic minority to the next.

Even locks of hair are sold in the market. The long hair tribes (discussed in a previous posting on the Dragon’s Backbone) prize these ‘extensions’.

And what’s a market without its exotic food options? Dried chilies and, yes, dog are still available served alongside Pao (steamed buns) and various soups and stews.

While we could have spent months exploring the various villages and tribes, we felt it was time to move on after a week. Packing up, we boarded a train heading further into the Chinese interior. Passing through the Southwest China transport hub of Kunming, our next stop is the magnificently stunning rice terraces of Yuanyang!

Snapshot Sunday: China’s Cuddly Creatures

2011-01-02T08:27:00.001-07:00

A must stop when in Chengdu is the Giant Panda Research Base. View these cute and cuddly creatures in the early morning when they come out for breakfast!

Snapshot Sunday: Chinese Hotpot

2010-12-26T10:33:00.001-07:00

We arrived in Chengdu late after our border run from Kunming to Hong Kong to renew our visas. The only restaurant open was packed with young local people but, as usual, was without an English menu. We sat down anyways and Tracy pointed in our phrase book for vegetarian which resulted in a laugh from the waitress. She in turn pointed at chicken and fish. We saw the fish heads and scales as we entered the restaurant and didn’t want that in our pot so we shrugged our shoulders and ordered chicken thinking how bad could it be? What came out of the kitchen was a cold hotpot, a concoction of lukewarm spicy broth with bits of chicken floating in it. We stirred our chopsticks around and the first thing Jason came up with was the chicken’s head! I swirled my chopsticks around and came up with a foot. We sighed, ordered another beer and resigned ourselves to going to bed hungry…

For those of you that are curious we asked at our (English speaking – YAY!) hostel and they confirmed that we went to a “different” kind of hotpot restaurant and that it shouldn’t keep us from trying Chengdu’s traditional hotpot which really is a delicious spicy concoction with vegetables and meats (it really is, I LOVE those SICHUAN peppercorns)!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all our Friends and Family!

2010-12-23T19:20:00.000-07:00

Another crazy year in the Bedsaul household has come and gone and what a ride it was! From the frozen tundra of the upper Midwest to the stifling heat of southern India, we wrapped up what ended up being our two year world tour by visiting the two most populated nations in China and India with Myanmar (Burma) thrown in for good measure.
We began the year in North Dakota making it to the annual fishing tournament in Devils Lake before hopping on a plane headed for Asia once again where we promptly landed without luggage (a problem which was rectified a day and a half later but what a start).
First on the list was Myanmar. For the past 40 years the country has been controlled by a military junta and little progress, economic or technological has been made in that time. It’s a nation stuck in the past. British Colonial buildings dot the cities in various degrees of crumbling beauty, American WWII transport trucks serve as buses shuttling people to and fro and electricity is a luxury not to be taken for granted as it disappears for hours at a time. Tourism in Myanmar has been severely restricted and travel there is tough but extremely rewarding with some of the world’s friendliest people.
Our next stop was India, home of the Taj Mahal and two of the world’s largest religions – Hinduism and Buddhism. We started in the north and made our way south taking in all of what India had to offer for better or worse. India is a land of extremes as there seems to be a huge line between the haves and the have not’s. By the time we reached the south of India, we had had enough of the heat, the poverty and the attitudes. We were ready to leave. But as the old adage goes, absence makes the heart grow fonder, and of all the places we have been, India ranks near the top of places we would revisit. We love to hate it but can’t wait to go back.
Leaving the sweltering heat behind, we moved on to our final country, China with quick stops in Hong Kong and Macau along the way. A nation that is clearly on the upswing, China proved to be one of the hardest countries to travel independently around. English is virtually nonexistent and the accommodations, in particular the bathroom situation, were among the worst in the world. The varied ethnic minority groups and stunning scenery made it all worthwhile but by the time we made it to Beijing we were ready for a dose of clean, more westernized China before heading back to the states to begin the starting over phase.
Our travels have been put on hold while we both explore new and exciting opportunities. Tracy is now a partner in a translation company which she manages from the comfort of home. Jason has returned to college at Lake Region State College in Devils Lake. He hopes to receive his AA in Accounting and then continue on to get his Bachelors in Web Development at NDSU. Ty and Athena have adjusted well to the extremes of North Dakota, although Ty makes his trips outside far shorter in the winter than summer!
We hope this letter finds you well and in good spirits. May you and yours have a joyous holiday season and best of luck in 2011!
Tracy, Jason, Ty and Athena

Strike up the Band and Welcome to the Show! Langde, China (Guizhou Province)

2010-12-20T18:56:00.001-07:00

Continuing on our tour of the ethnic countryside surrounding Kaili we next head to Langde. While most of the Miao villages are quite similar in architecture and landscape, they each have their own unique personalities and characters. The government, in their constant pursuit of capitalizing on the growing number of internal domestic tourists, treat many of these villages as new mints, increasing the nations coffers at the expense of the local villagers and their traditional ways of life. It’s a story that is oft repeated in modern day China, but I don’t think there was a place that was more in your face that what we experienced in Langde.

We boarded the local bus with the usual cast of characters – chain smoking farmers, produce toting old ladies and the token fellow independent traveller (in this case a Frenchman) all driven by the chain smoking driver. . . did we mention that they smoke a lot here?

Upon arrival we were greeted by a gaggle of men guarding the public bathrooms who smiled and waived as we set out and began exploring the village. At first the village seemed deserted. No one was in sight. Aside from the half a dozen men guarding the restrooms, the place was a deserted. But that in itself was not such a bad thing. The peaceful silence was a welcome respite and wandering the cobblestone streets without hassle or bustle was nice.

Peaceful silence can only last so long in two people’s lives and after a half hour or so we began to think the place was a bust. We came to the conclusion that everyone must be out in the fields hard at work and that we had just came at the wrong time. We weighed our options and began to think about when that next bus would be heading back to Kaili. As we wandered back to the entrance of the village our silence was broken by a scratchy voice coming over the loud speaker. . .wait the village has loud speakers?

Having spent some time in China’s neighbor to the south, Vietnam, we knew a thing or two about Communist countries and how much they love to broadcast propaganda. The ‘Voice of Vietnam’ can still be heard today in smaller villages across the country, bringing the news and stories of the world, only with a slanted twist in favor of Vietnam. Knowing none of the languages being spoken, we just assumed it was the Big Red machine hard at work. A few moments later, the voice bellowed out once again. As if on queue, glimpses of villagers dressed in full regalia began to flash down the alleys. The voice came again, this time more hurried and anxious. This was something more than just propaganda. . . this was a call to action.

The town square filled with young and old, men and women, crippled and able bodied. They came from all corners of the village and beyond. Doors previously barred and closed, swung open to reveal shops.

Babies with slit pants shared the square with fully adorned Mao women donning celebratory attire and headdresses.

Another call goes over the loud speaker and we finally realize the voice is coming from this very same square and that the man making the announcements is directing people sit here, stand there and line up over there. Still not 100% sure what’s going on, we decide to sit on the ledge out of the way and wait to see happens.

The band strikes up and a few moments later, streaming in from one side came the point-and-shoot wielding, khaki’s shorts and goofy hat bearing tour group. Ah, now it all makes sense. The icing on the cake came in what I like to refer to as a “Funny Farm Moment.” (A couple think they have purchased their dream home until the townspeople show their true colors. In an effort to sell the house, the couple pay off the town to act ‘normal’ for a day.) Little coupons were divvied out to those that participated in the charade and there even appeared to be multiple levels. If you showed up in dress, you got a little coupon; if you sang and danced, you were given a different colored coupon.

Authentic no longer, the show was still interesting as we were able to hear traditional songs, see traditional dances and dress all without having to fork out any money.

Sure it was a little fake, but hey, it was fun and entertaining anyways.

After the show, we walked back though the gorgeous valley a couple of kilometers to the main highway to catch the public bus back to Kaili. Langde may be somewhat tainted in our minds by the show put on by the government, but in China, land of kitsch, it somehow just seems to make sense.

Old Made to Look New: Picture perfect in Xijiang, China (Guizhou Province)

2010-12-07T22:53:00.001-07:00

Xijiang has been bulldozed by the Chinese government and rebuilt with beautiful brand new buildings built in the typical Miao-style. You see this all around China, in particular in minority regions that cater to China’s vast domestic tourist market. It’s the appeal of the old, but spic and span (at least on the outside) and made to look shiny and new. For us, we prefer a more realistic look, though I won’t argue that the results were stunning! It’s a bit of a warped combination, these picture perfect buildings that represent reality as much as the McMansions back home…

It was a rainy day so we didn’t spend much time in Xijiang. We went for the market and since in our opinion, that is the “real” Xijiang, that is what we’ll show you (after the first and only required touristy photo op – I could not resist paying a buck to don the traditional Miao attire).

I was pretty excited when the bus dropped us off at the top of the hill and I saw this guy cruising by on his motorbike! What is that animal? Where is he taking him? Will we see him for sale in the market below?

We never did find out what it was and we didn’t see him in the market but as we made our way down through the traditional Miao style buildings we finally crossed the river and found the traditional market!

We did more people watching than shopping which is how we like it! We both love to watch the men sewing (gender roles in relation to occupation are often flipped here) as well as the Chinese barbers in action. They set up for every market, sometimes in the middle of the road, sometimes down by the river, really anywhere! But they are always around. I wonder what they charge? We should have found out. Note to self…find out before springing for next $40 haircut (yeah right).

Snapshot Sunday: The Citified Rice Terrace – Dali, China (Yunnan Province

2010-12-04T23:13:00.002-07:00

Rice terraces are everywhere in China, in the flat countryside, the mountainous regions and even right outside the city!

HIking the Rice Terraces of Guizhou: Tong’an, China - A Photo Story

2010-11-24T21:19:00.000-07:00

Useful Tip: It’s so much easier to take a local bus to Tong’An and to walk back DOWNHILL to Zhaoxing! If only we had known, instead we trekked for hours uphill. It truly was stunning and it made us appreciate the natural beauty even more but boy were we tired when we finally reached Tong’An. Here are some of the things we saw on our hike!

Finally, we made it to Tong’An!

Exhausted after our unexpected hike we started the walk downhill, via the road this time. We flagged down a bus and headed back to Zhaoxing! Next stop, Kaili, the capital of Guizhou province!

Snapshot Sunday: The Many Faces of China – Hani Lady in Yuanyang, China (Yunnan Province)

2010-11-21T10:17:00.000-07:00

We snapped a photo of this smiling Hani woman at one of the weekly markets near Yuanyang. Did I mention that this is one of the most beautiful places in all of China? Perhaps it was the time of year we were there, I’'m not really sure but the rice terraces looked like impressionist paintings! In addition the area is full of local Bai and Hani people making this an excellent stop in Yunnan!

A Glimpse of Rural China - Zhaoxing, China

2010-11-19T21:16:00.001-07:00

Stats:

Destination: Zhaoxing, China (Guizhou province)

Number of Days Spent: 2 days

Where we stayed: I don’t even think the place we stayed at had a name. We had read about one place in town with a western toilet and comfortable accommodations at a moderate price but unfortunately they were full. The nice owner led us down a path to his friend’s place with 3 clean ‘brand new’ rooms and yet another squat toilet (this one was almost like an outhouse but with running water, I can’t quite explain it and sorry, I didn’t take a photo) as well as an unbelievably hard bed (the Chinese like REALLY hard beds, sometimes I thought sleeping on a wooden board would have been more comfortable.)

Absolutely no English was spoken, we relied on our Lonely Planet phrase book for EVERYTHING including a very interesting check-in while they filled out the paperwork needed to register us as guests with the local authorities. We thought they were asking what country we were from and despite us telling them USA in Chinese they still didn’t get it so we said, “Obama”. Their eyes lit up with recognition :-) Unfortunately we were wrong, they were only asking us for our names…. The couple that owned the place was very friendly and sweet, and very patient with our questions (which we asked by pointing at words in our phrase book). Throughout the day and always welcomed us back home with big smiles.

I did see the biggest spider imaginable there though but what do you expect for the middle of the countryside in rural China? I screamed just as Jason spotted it and jumped to action crushing the (did I mention it was huge) hideous spider with his shoe. I still feel a shiver go up my spine every time I think about it… IT WAS MASSIVE, easily the biggest spider I have ever seen in my life! But, the hotel was quite cheap at 50 RMB per night ($8-$9) per night including hot water (and unlimited green tea). One nice thing was that it had this view of the drum tower from our huge window!

Best restaurant: We ate at a couple of places but by far we enjoyed A Mei’s place the most. I (Tracy) stuck with veggies which were cheap, plentiful and tasty around 3 RMB or about $.50 per dish) and Jason tried the chicken with cashews at 10 RMB or $1.35. The food was very fresh and reasonably priced. I don’t think they had an English menu, we used our phrasebook and were pleased with the results!

Best of: Zhaoxing was our first stop in Guizhou province and as China’s poorest province it doesn’t have the tourist infrastructure of its neighbors. It was a real challenge to travel there but definitely worth it…huge paintings of Mao hang inside every house, the buses (and roads) are terrible, people smoke like chimneys on buses, they stop on the road side for “toilet” breaks, they bring on their babies on the bus sans diapers and wearing the traditional pants with slits so they can relieve themselves anywhere…including the seat of the bus. It’s real life rural China, it hasn’t changed in decades and it hasn’t been “redecorated” by the Chinese government like much of Yunnan and Guangxi provinces.

Worst of: One of the babies on the bus (remember those pants with slits that I mentioned?) had ‘stuff’ coming out of both ends as we drove through the windy mountain roads. Unfortunately the young mom thought it was better to just move seats and leave the mess festering letting the smell waft over to us. Every time the bus turned a new direction we watched the ‘mess’ slash back and forth. The smell nearly drove me (Tracy) off the bus.

Most Memorable: As we were hiking uphill near Tong’An we came across this pantless kid…we stared at her, she stared at us, we chuckled and we kept on walking. You see the strangest things in China! We did see her mom looking for her a few minutes later so we were relieved that a 2 year old wasn’t just wandering around the rice terraces around. It’s certainly a different world!

Zhaoxing (肇興)

The Dong minority village of Zhaoxing is a peaceful little town with a thriving Dong culture. A wander through town displays ample evidence of traditional, everyday life: women weaving cloth, pounding indigo with large hammers by the water and making traditional Dong costumes as children played in the street.

It also hosts a thriving weekend market complete with its own meat section!

The town is nestled in a valley amidst the rice fields, it’s full of old wooden buildings, wind and rain bridges, drum towers and the old men that like to gather underneath them for conversation. A stroll trough town is a peaceful way to spend the better part of the day, stopping to chat with local residents or to take photos of the kids playing.

From Zhaoxing don’t miss the trek to Tong’An through gorgeous rice fields. We recommend taking the bus to Tong’An and walking back downhill to Zhaoxing. We went the other way around which was still exceptionally beautiful but a bit more work. Stay tuned for photos from our trek to Tong’An in the next installment of our blog!

Getting ready for the holidays! Holiday cards from Shutterfly!

2010-11-18T17:27:00.000-07:00

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Snapshot Sunday: The Naxi Alphabet

2010-11-14T21:22:00.001-07:00

The Naxi are one of the national ethnic minorities in China. They live primarily in the Yunnan region of China and comprise one of the few matriarchal societies in China. They have their own language and script, the pictoral alphabet, as seen below, is a work of art as seen on one of the school walls in Lijiang!

Technorati Tags: China,Lijiang,Naxi,Yunnan

Snapshot Sunday: Pork, It’s What’s for Breakfast!

2010-11-07T08:23:00.000-07:00

In China you’ll see people set up with all types of makeshift grilling operations, this one was made out of a paint can (sounds safe, huh)? Nothing like the paint vapors infiltrating your food! We spotted this woman grilling up a storm while her customers lined up in wait while we were waiting for our morning bus one day in Zhaoxing in Guizhou province.

Snapshot Sunday: Happy Halloween!

2010-10-31T13:32:00.001-06:00

Happy Halloween everyone!

Dong Villages & Wind & Rain Bridge - Chengyang, China

2010-10-27T19:13:00.001-06:00

Stats:
Destination: Chengyang, China (Guangxi Province)
Number of Days Spent: 1 day

Where we stayed: Can’t remember the name but you cross the Wind & Rain Bridge and take an immediate left. Walk past the Chengyang Bridge National Hostel and it is the next hotel. Price was around 60 RMB/night and it had free wifi, a balcony with a view of the bridge & (yay!) western toilets.

Best restaurant: We were not impressed with the dining options in Chengyang, craving pizza we tried Yang’s Guesthouse recommended in Lonely Planet and on wikitravel…the results were less than spectacular, in fact, probably the worst pizza we ate in China. Plus, it took forever. Our breakfast the following morning at the guesthouse wasn’t much better…note to self, must seek out local food :-)
Best of: We didn’t care all that much for the touristy village across the bridge but we had a great walk through nearby Dong villages with perfect lighting for photos. We enjoyed watching the kids playing in the river, villagers carrying baskets through the fields and tending their rice, motorcycles being lovingly washed & workers at break on the roads.
Worst of: Yet another hefty Chinese entrance fee…this one 50 RMB just to get across the bridge & into town!
Most Memorable: Oily tea? We’ll never forget it and while some people may really enjoy it, we are not among them!

Useful Tip: There is much written on avoiding the extrance fees on the way into Chengyang. We arrived in the middle of the day and the bus dropped us off right in front of the ticket booth. I’m not sure how people are going about avoiding the fees. They even had a guard posted at the secondary bridge before getting into town.
Getting there: Getting here is a snap if coming from the Longji rice terraces. Once you’re in Longshen take a bus to Sanjiang. If you’re arriving from the rice terraces (or from Guilin) you will be at a different bus terminal and you will need to walk about 10 minutes to the He Xi terminal. From there, buses travel to Sanjiang frequently throughout the day. If you get there after 5pm there are vans that cost 10 RMB and will take you to Chengyang. For onward transport double check the times for the buses as they change frequently. There is a bus that passes through that goes to Zhaoxing in Guizhou province (note that you will have to change buses at the border between Guangxi & Guizhou province).
A brief stop on our trip through southern China, the elaborate Wind & Rain Bridge is typical of the Dong minorities that live in this rural region of southern China. The bridge itself was a feat of engineering, built 100 years ago without the benefit of nails! It’s 78 meters long and contains 5 separate pagoda like structures. Walking across isn’t that interesting, it’s filled with run in the mill souvenir stands but walk away from the hustle and bustle, it’s lovely from afar or better yet, sip on a cup of Chinese tea from your hotel balcony while the suns comes up (or goes down).

While in Chengyang make sure to take a walk through rural China through the clusters of Dong villages that make this area home. Green rice paddies, picturesque villages set on the river, chickens clucking about, pigs crossing the road, men smoking their pipes at the drum towers, it’s a slice of idyllic rural life, best appreciated on foot! Visiting Chengyang on its own is probably not worth the effort but if you’re traveling by bus between Guangxi and Guizhou it’s certainly worth an afternoon stop!

Snapshot Sunday: Ethnic Minorities in China, Miao Girl in Guizhou

2010-10-23T20:13:00.001-06:00

Southern China is a melting pot of ethnic minorities. In our two months traveling there we met Yao, Dong, Miao, Bai, Naxi and Tibetan people (and I’m sure I”m missing a few). We stumbled upon this smiling Miao girl in Landhe near Kaili, the capital of Guizhou province!

Snapshot Sunday: Ethnic Minorities in China, Dong Village of Zhoaxing

2010-10-17T22:10:00.001-06:00

I love this man’s sweet face! We walked by him squatting on the side of the main road with a collection of small handmade bamboo pipes for sale. As we explored the region we noticed many males sitting by the river and in the gathering areas of town smoking away on these same pipes. Curious, we stopped to investigate and before we knew it we were surrounded by passersby's, all wanting to see what the foreigners were up to! We had a quick chat with the man (as best as our hand motions and mispronunciations from our language book would allow) and finally settled on a price by drawing numbers in the dirt! The souvenirs were less than a buck but the memory and interaction with the locals was worth far more!

A Photo Story: Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces – Ping’an to Dazhai, China

2010-10-16T08:45:00.000-06:00

Stats:

Destination: Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces

Number of Days Spent: 1

Where we stayed: Wanjing Lou (万景楼) located between the Panorama Hotel and Tiantouzhou – the room was clean and reasonably comfortable with welcome hot showers but no western toilet was available…only a squat toilet. Plus, just a scrap of material for a towel! Still it boasted a really lovely view and was only 15 minutes away from a fantastic sunrise point, definitely a keeper if you can deal with squat toilets (and traveling through China you should get yourself acquainted with them)! This was our first for a hotel room but not our last!

Best restaurant: The stir fried egg & tomato dish at Wanjing Lou was really yummy…skip the fish though, it was bony and disappointing. A “bing pijou” aka a cold beer was a must have after trekking up and down the rice fields all day long. The steamed bread at breakfast looked delicious but we opted for the tasty “mi fen” noodle soup instead. Enjoy the view while you eat, the porch boasts a fabulous view of the rice terraces!

Best of: The sunrise from Tiantouzhou was simply stunning! It’s hard to imagine that these rice terraces were hand carved out of the hills 600 years ago!

Worst of: Somewhere near the little village of Zhongliu we got a little turned around and the residents of town were a little overly concerned we wouldn’t make it to our destination by sunset…they wanted us to stay the night with them and were rather persistent. Really it wasn’t so bad, just a little annoying because we kept getting turned around and being pointed in the wrong direction. Staying would have have been interesting but we had our heart set on seeing the sunrise from Tiantouzhou.

Most Memorable: After spending so much time in India it felt great to get out and really stretch our legs and breath in the fresh countryside air. It’s was refreshing to walk in peace and quiet with the beautiful setting of the rice terraces in front of us.

Useful Tip: Leave your backpack at the left luggage office in Longsheng, trust us, you don’t want to carry it up and down the rice terraces. Just take a small bag of necessities and your camera for the overnight stay. If you don’t heed our advice and need assistance carrying your bag or if you need a guide the Yao ladies meet all of the buses and are happy to help for a small fee!

Getting there: You can take a bus from Yangshuo to Guilin (it’s recommended to take the first one of the morning if you want to hike from Ping’an to Tiantouzhou the same day for sunrise the following day), from Guilin to Longshen and from Longshen to Ping’an. You can buy your ticket into the terraces (50 RMB) on the bus. Getting to and from was surprisingly easy even though the buses were really busy due to a huge Chinese holiday the week we were there. Just remember to get someone from your hotel or a Chinese friend to write down the city names in Chinese characters so you can show them to the ticket agent at the bus terminal. This helped us out a lot!

Hiking the Dragon’s Backbone

Resembling the dragon’s scales, and the summit of the mountain the backbone of the the dragon, the Longji rice terraces were built nearly 600 years ago by farmers with the simple need to grow more rice. So what do you do when your farmland is a bunch of hills? You make the best of what you got. Chinese ingenuity kicked in, carving these stunning terraces into the mountains, allowing the farmers to grow more rice and at the same time creating some of the most gorgeous scenery in all of China. But don’t take our word for it! Check out the photos below from our hike!

The hike began in Ping’an…

Halfway there, we stopped in the village of Zhongliu, complete with a charming, tiny waterfall! These ladies were walking through the terraces with the food they gathered and struck up a conversation. They wanted to chat with us, show us their hair…cook us a meal…invite us to stay…all for a price! They were actually pretty funny so we decided to go for it, not something we would normally do but it was pretty interesting and well worth the $1 we tipped them.

We made it to our hotel about 4.5 hours after starting and right after sunset! We settled in for a few cold beers and dinner with a view of the terraces! The next morning we woke up before the crack of dawn and headed up to the viewing platform near the Panorama hotel. I think the results were worth it!

After sunrise we started making our way down from Tiantouzhou to Dazhai. The fields in this part of the terraces were flooded and they were beginning to transplant the baby rice! Beautiful!

Finally we arrived in Dazhai, caught a bus to Longshen and connected to Chenyang for our next stop in China: the Wind & Rain Bridge!

Snapshot Sunday! Little Piggies Come to Market!

2010-10-10T07:59:00.000-06:00

We found the daily markets near Yuanyang to be endlessly fascinating for people watching. Colorful Bai and Hani people gather at these markets each day to sell livestock, fruits, vegetables, clothes or even to get their hair cut. We couldn’t resist getting this shot with the sellers and market buyers chatting away while the poor little piggies were put out for purchase. A typical daily scene at Yuanyang…

“Country Road…Take me Home” and Dog Meat: Yangshuo pt. 2

2010-10-03T21:39:00.001-06:00

This is a continuation of a previous post. For technical details on Yangshuo, check out the previous post.

* For anyone not wishing to see a dead dog being roasted on a grill – you might want to skip this posting. *

Yangshuo may be most famous for it’s delicious scenery, but there are plenty of cultural experiences to be had as well. Open air village markets can be found all around Yangshuo and offer the authentically rural ethnic scene. Back in town, the ever popular indoor market sees a unique blend of tour buses, curious independents and locals alike. For an over the top experience, the Liu Sanjie show is a must see. But of course, this is China, and if there is one thing we know about China – they do fake well. Enter the Shangri La Village – one of many tourist trap places designed for the local tourist.

The market in town, while not as atmospheric as the ones in the villages is a good place to start off a market going experience in China. Tame by some standards, the market features your usual veggies, fruits and meat along with a few local delicacies. River snails, eels, and…yes…dog meat can be found. We were here as a starting point for our little foray into Chinese cooking.

After our tour of the Farmers Trading Market, we took our fresh ingredients and attempted to whip up something good. Chinese cuisine is arguably the most available in the world in some fashion. From stir fries to dumplings many variations of foods that we eat today can trace their origins to the Chinese. On the menu for us tonight – one of my favorites – Cashew chicken, fried eggplant, some tofu dish (but NOT stinky tofu – our vote for world’s worst tasting dish – coming in a couple of posts from now) all washed down with a nice cold local variety of beer. Compliments of the Communist era mentality, nearly every region has a local brew that comes in big, cheap bottles – suitable for the uniform one-for-all-equal government. It’s a bit socialistic, but I’m never one to complain about cheap beer!

For a little more authentic rural Chinese experience, we turned to the afore mentioned Lilly (http://lillylu.webs.com/Index.html ) and a little motorbike ride out to Fuli Village for market day. Having to take a local ferry across the river to visit Fuli from Yangshuo keeps some of the bus hoards at bay and gives the market a more authentic feeling. Wandering up and down the lanes of produce, textiles and general supplies ranging from ‘gently-used’ hoe heads to cheap bars of soap can elude a feeling of a million miles from your local Wal-mart (although even they are closer than one would hope). Sustenance living still makes up a large part of the Chinese population and there is no better proof of that than a woman sitting on the ground all day trying to sell just a handful of extra crops their family has grown.

There may be no one-hour photo processing, but there is a dentist in the house should the need arise.

In doing our little part to try and set the record straight on dog consumption, here are our three little facts about dog that we know. 1) As a foreigner, you will never ‘accidently’ get dog meat in any restaurant – it is much too expensive to just be ‘throwing it in’ when the beef runs out. 2) Not every Chinese man woman or child eats dog – in fact – very few do and a growing number of Chinese are starting to keep them as pets and find the idea of eating them repulsive. 3) Of the ones that eat dog, most only do so for special circumstances – namely – when trying to conceive a child. Dogs ‘never miss’ and the superstition of ‘you are what you eat’ plays heavily in the decision to plate up Fido for the evening meal. Of course, there are exceptions to every rule and with all that being said, a steaming pot of dog stew was on offer this fine morning – we opted to keep moving. Yes, that’s a blow torch, the preferred cooking method.

In need of something a little more….well…pure for the soul, we ventured from the market area to check out some of the local handicrafts on offer. Here are some rice noodles drying in the sun. With so many rice fields it should not come as a surprise that the grain plays heavily into their cuisine. What does come as a surprise is that Chinese eat less rice than most of their neighbors, opting for the noodle variety more often.

Fuli is famous for its hand painted fans and you don’t have to go to far before seeing them also drying in the sun or an open gallery with a couple of people painting away.

Farming is still very much a way of life and you don’t have to go far to see fields plowed using the traditional water buffalo hooked to a plow. Where food production in America has become big business, here it’s still a simple means of feeding the family one day at a time.

Liugong Village is located just a short distance down river from Fuli and provides an even quieter setting. Narrow, cobblestone streets are the norm rather than the exception and very little is going on during the daylight hours as the farms are being tended to.

Being one of the most beautiful areas in all of China, it should come as no surprise that the famous Chinese film director, Zhang Yimou (best known internationally for his production of the Opening Ceremonies of the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing), chose this setting for his first Impressions show, Liu Sanjie. With the stunning karst backdrop, the show features over 600 actors and actresses acting in various degrees of unison to produce a visually stunning performance. Well beyond my personal expectations, the show is well choreographed and even though it’s all in Chinese, one can get the sense of the story by following the movements and visual cues.

Shangri La – just the name itself conjures up images of paradise, the proverbial land of milk and honey. In China, in it’s always mindful best-face-forward state of mind, the word is thrown around fairly liberally and applied to just about anything the government wants you to pay attention to. When Lily said we had time to stop at this interesting but different place we really should have followed our instincts and said no thanks. Figuring what the heck, why not – we ponied up the couple extra buck and popped in anyways. The only other life experience I can equate it too would have to be the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disney Land. In the ride, you sit on a boat, float down a fake river and just as get close enough to see the exhibits, the mechanics snap into action – singing and dancing and gyrating much to the pre-teen kid’s delight. It’s like that only replace the ‘drunk’ pirates with real ‘ethnic’ people (yes, the government PAYS them to be there) and you get the gist. The only thing that made this place redeeming was the sweetest tour guide you could ever imagine. Designated as our tour guide because she was the only one who could speak English, the gal made sure the pirates…err…ethnic natives fired up right on cue. During the boat portion of the program, she did an impromptu rendition of John Denver’s “Country Road” that we still get a good laugh about all the time. Sadly we failed to take a photo of the girl, but the memory was almost worth the price of admission.

Having been serenaded, fed well, entertained, and educated in the culinary arts (and I don’t mean how to blow torch Max to the proper internal temp) it was time to bid adieu to Yangshuo and make our way to the Dragon’s Backbone – a cool name for more agricultural marvels.

Snapshot Sunday! Lovely Rice Terraces near Yuanyang!

2010-10-03T12:19:00.001-06:00

Yet another breathtaking view of China’s rice terraces! As we moved from Guangxi to Guizhou and finally into Yunnan we felt that the terraces grew more and more spectacular. Yuanyang was our favorite rice terrace viewing location in China, much due in part to the awesome ethnic minority markets that surround the area. Please don’t miss this stop if you are traveling through southern China! If you have ever been to Sapa and Bac Ha markets you know what it’s like…same, same but different!

Snapshot Sunday! Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces

2010-09-26T10:46:00.001-06:00

Here is a sneak peak to one of our upcoming blogs! This was taken at sunrise while we were hiking between Ping‘an and Dazhai in the Guangxi region of China. The hike was gorgeous and getting up to the top of the terraces for sunrise was definitely worth it! Don’t miss this hike if you are in the area!

Limestone Karsts and Meandering Rivers - Yangshuo, China pt.1

2010-09-15T04:12:00.000-06:00

Destination: Yangshuo, Guangxi Provence, China
Number of Days spent: 6 days
Where we stayed: Yu Lan Gee Hotel (100RMB/$15) Quiet and just a stones’ throw from the bustling Xi Jie (West) street. It’s located on the same street as the McDonalds but opposite side (the sign is in Chinese only). The owners were friendly, but spoke very little English – a sign of things to come for sure.
Best Restaurant: Kelly’s Place served up decent Western fare and the place next door to Kelly’s had the best dumplings in town that we tried in Yangshuo (Minority Cafe). If you are looking for the poor farmer’s breakfast dish, mi fen, 5RMB (around .75 cents) will get you a filling and delicious soup (our pick every single morning). Many places in town (and all over China for that matter) serve this – just look for the shops filled with people eating soup with chopsticks. The one we enjoyed the most was four blocks north of McDonalds on the southwest corner of the block.
Best of: Some of the most spectacular scenery in all of China, Olympic style show set on the river, Wonderful local markets in the surrounding villages.
Worst of: What started out as a nice leisurely ‘cruise’ down the Yulong River ended with a 3 hour standoff between us and the people trying to rip us off. Read below for details. Here’s one of the boatmen we had the standoff with.

Useful tip: To avoid all the frustration, sometimes it’s best just to go with a guide. For around 100RMB per day, Lilly will show you around and book just about anything in the area that can be booked for little or no extra cost to you. The afore mentioned boat ride would have cost 180RMB with her – but it would have been legit and hassle free.
Visit Lilly's website:
http://lillylu.webs.com/Index.html
Contact with Lilly via mobile phone:
+86 138 7737 3880
+86 135 5766 8442
Most Memorable:   In what is otherwise one of the largest tourist traps…ever…we met one of the sweetest girls. Read Pt. 2 for more…
After the bright lights of Hong Kong and the fast paced growth and gambling of Macau, it was time to slow things down a bit. We cleared border formalities, navigated massive Guangzhou (pop. 10+ million) and found the night bus to Yangshuo.
While we got away from the big city life, there was no getting away from the 1 billion Chinese. In one of the fastest growing economies the world has ever seen, China’s middle class are on the move. Yangshuo and it’s bigger brother, Guilin, have become popular tourist destinations thanks to their proximity to some of the most beautiful scenery in all of China. Limestone karsts, peaks of rock covered by lush greenery, just up from an otherwise level countryside. The scene is known by every Chinese citizen as it appears on the back of a 20RMB note – the equivalent of our $5 bill.
Ok, so the town itself is a little overrun, but don’t let that stop you from coming here. The vast majority of visitors take the boat cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo and few venture far from the confines of town. This leaves the rest of this beautiful area open for independent exploring with little to no tourists. Whether you leave town by boat, bicycle or electric scooter (one of the few places in China that foreigners are allowed to drive one) the surrounding country provides a wealth of scenery to be explored.
Just south of town lies the Yulong River. We rented bikes for the day and rode out to the Dragon Bridge. At 600 years old, this stone arched bridge is one of the oldest and largest stone bridges in the province. In this part, the Yulong river is tranquil and calm making it an attractive place for engaged couples to have wedding photos shot. Loaded aboard makeshift bamboo rafts, the bride (dressed in her wedding gown) and the groom (usually dress in an untucked shirt with a tie and blue jeans!?!) pose in front of the surrounding lush green hills.

After grabbing a bite to eat, we set out to negotiate a boat ride back to town. After negotiating what we felt was more than fair for a two hour ride (145 RMB/$20) on a bamboo raft, we sat out down the river – two beers in hand and looking forward to a relaxing couple of hours. The scenery alone makes the trip well worth it. As an added bonus, there are a couple of short ‘waterfalls’ that you glide over and get splashed just enough to feel good.

Suddenly we stopped one hour into the ride and were asked to get out at a place that was not where we had agreed to ride till. Foolishly, we had paid upfront – trusting the little ladies we had negotiated with. We refused to get out of the raft until they refunded half our money or take us the rest of the way. 56.5 RMB and the sun now set, we caved in and took what they had, feeling confident that we had taken all the money that they had on them and the truck that was sent to collect the boat but still upset that the one that sold us the ticket was no where to be seen or heard. We later learned that they do this sort of thing all the time. They sell you a ‘ticket’ that has been used and take people down the river all the way to the point just before the police checkpoint as to pocket all the money you thought you were paying for the ticket as well as the ride.

For our next river trip, and upon recommendation of our friends Susan & Roger, this time on the Li, we took the wiser route and hired Lilly for the day. In general, the karsts that line the Li are larger and more impressive than along the Yulong. The river itself is also larger making it a much busier river. Large dinner-cruise boats plow the river from Guilin to Yangshuo. To keep the tourists coming to Guilin, they only operate one way and go back upriver empty so if you want to take the full cruise, you have to stay in Guilin for at least one night. An alternative is to catch the local bus up to Yangdi and hire a boat from there.

Considered the most beautiful stretch of the Li, the area between Yangdi and Xingping is the most photographed and busiest. We however, preferred the Yulong River to the Li. In any case, we opted for a short boat ride and then a couple hour hike through a couple of villages.

There’s no better way to advertise your countries natural beauties than to affix images of hem to your money. The Y20 note features this scene just outside of Xingping…well almost. Worried that their efforts would lead to counterfeiters taking pictures of the same spot, the picture on the currency features an additional karst that does not exist. Ahhh China, is there nothing in this world that you cannot forge, fake, copy or steal?

The town of Xingping proper is over 1000 years old and provides a charming secondary option to staying in Yangshuo or Guilin. There are a handful of charming cafes, a small riverfront area and all the usual shopping that appears virtually everywhere in China.

While the rivers provide a great setting for catching reflections of karsts in the water, the most famous karst in the area is not near the rivers. For a great overlook of the surrounding area head to Moon Hill. The hike to the top is straight forward but expect to have a ‘guide’ for company anyways. The hills namesake – a moon shaped hole in the side sets the scene for some more great shots of the distant karsts. Once at the top, our ‘guides’ kept pestering us to buy a coke – “Good Americans buy coke at top of hill…you bad American!” They even followed us back down the hill and continued taunting us as we waited to catch the local bus back to town…business must be slow. Moon Hill is super easy to get to, just catch a mini-bus heading south of town and get off around 9kms. Alternatively you could rent a bike and bike here, but taking the minivan is an easier and cheaper alternative with the added advantage of riding with the locals.

Finished with exploring the natural beauty of the Yangshuo area, it was time to explore some of the villages and what the town of Yangshuo itself had to offer. Stay tuned for Yangshuo part II!

Photo Flashback: Two Years Ago Today I turned 30

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We thought it would be fun to have a quick look back to two years ago when we first started our journey. These shots were taken on my 30th birthday and never fail to make my husband laugh at me. Now, 2 years older and certainly wiser I know not to mess with monkeys…or at least I know not to give them bananas directly!

Luck be a Lady Tonight! Decadence, Delicacies and Delights in Macau, China.

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Stats:

Destination: Macau

Number of Days Spent: 3

Where we stayed: Royal Macau Hotel – in a city that’s as expensive as Macau, you might as well go all out. This 4 star hotel had all the amenities you might would expect – Indoor pool, sauna, chandeliers in the lobby, plush king size beds…I don’t think either one of us wanted to leave – but at over $100 bucks a night – time is money.

Best restaurant: More of an institution than a restaurant, Lord Stowe’s has been serving up tasty pastries for nearly a century. Their Egg Tarts are delicious and well worth the trek down to Coloane for. Also in the quaint village of Coloane there is a tasty open air restaurant that serves up excellent seafood – just look for the crowds of people.

The most popular treat for the visiting Chinese are little almond cookies. They are seemingly on every corner in ready to give gift packs to take back and share with your friends and family. Free samples are de rigeour :-)

We didn’t try it but see, the Chinese like “ethnic” food too (In case you can’t read the sign it says “Ireland’s Potato”)! We didn’t try the pig fat cookies either – I think the name says it all.

Best of: Hitting it ‘big’ at the Venetian, fountain and light show outside the Wynn, a little taste of Portuguese culture remarkably exists amongst the rapid expansion.

Worst of: Expensive with little to no ‘cheap’ accommodation or restaurants – Bring your bank roll here. I also never made it to get the Pork Chop sandwich – a local ‘treat’ that eluded us for various reasons.

Most Memorable: Seeing the throngs of touring Chinese gambling the night away and shopping till they drop on Almond Cookies and various dried meat products.

Useful Tip: Taxi’s are relatively inexpensive, but still are the most expensive method of transport. Nearly every hotel in town offers a shuttle to the boat dock to Hong Kong. From there you can catch any of the shuttles to the casinos for free. Want a more direct path? Jump on the bus system – it’s a little confusing but most buses follow the same route so getting on just about any of them will get you in the general area…that is if you know the area!

The other “Two systems, one nation”, Macau lived for centuries in the shadows of Hong Kong. Financial centers based themselves in Hong Kong and Macau continued life with fishing being the main industry. That was until 2001 when the government relaxed gaming regulations. Casinos have since became the main source of income for Macau drawing visitors from Hong Kong, mainland China and all over the world.

But it’s not all about casinos. Macau is rich in culture and cuisine as well. A unique blend of Old World Portuguese charm splashed with Chinese and Buddhism. Cobblestone streets give way to churches and temples alike and the cuisine is equally as unique. Prawns from Goa (another Portuguese port), coconut chicken from Africa and local fish and seafood all blend together in delightful fusion foods long before ‘fusion’ food was a catch phrase.

Religion and superstition has been an integral part of everyday life for many Macanese. With the sea lapping on it’s shores, it’s no surprise that the goddess to the sea is the sight of the most revered temple in Macau. A-ma was a poor girl looking for passage to the mainland harbor of Guangzhou. No one would take her except for one poor fisherman. After a storm destroyed all the other ships and saved the one lone fisherman’s ship – she was immortalized both in name and tale. The name Macau comes from this story – A-Ma-Gau – or the bay of A-ma.

The temple is still an important place of worship today and many superstitious gamblers opt to drop a few coins in the donation slot before trying their luck with other forms of Slots.

While superstitions and Buddhism remaining strong, the catholic influence the Portuguese brought with them also left a lasting mark. All that’s left of the magnificent Church of Saint Paul is the facade, but what a facade! Perched atop a hill, the facade has become one of Macau’s more recognized symbols. Just across a small valley on another hill sits the Monte Fort. Built by the Jesuits (who also built the church) in the 17th century, the fort protected their interests on the peninsula for many years. Today is an excellent museum highlighting the history of Macau from pre-historic times all the way up to the return of Macau to China in the 90’s.

The southern peninsula of Macau plays host to all the glory of the past as well as the future. The elegant 19th century homes of the noble Portuguese are well maintained. Manicured lawns, no vehicles and along a beautiful lake, the setting doesn’t get much better.

History is great and all, but Macau today is Casino central. Prior to 2001, gambling in Macau was a monopoly, one man controlled all the casinos in town and treated it like a strict business. No glitz or glamour – gambling was ran more rigid and controlled. In 2002, things opened up and more casino operators started to move into town. At first it was a few smaller businessmen opening up with, among others, the Lisboa.

It wasn’t long before Vegas caught wind of the excitement and started showing up. Revenues from casinos in Macau have since surpassed Las Vegas and the building continues at breakneck speed all appealing to one of the fastest growing economies in the history of the world – present day China.

We tested out lady luck at The Venetian – currently the world’s largest casino. A sprawling mass of high end shops spread between two malls, gondola rides along the ‘canal’ and lots and lots of flashing and beeping slot machines. Fortunately luck was on our side tonight – we dropped in a few Hong Kong Dollars (the preferred currency although they have their own money with a similar exchange rate) and ended up walking out with $1500 dollars!! Ok, so it’s HK dollars which makes our winnings more like $200 US, but that just about covered our hotel and in a place like Macau, that’s about as good as you can hope for.

Bank Roll and Visa in hand it was time for a real dose of reality and Chinese culture. Next stop – Chairman Mao’s beloved country - communist controlled China!

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